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Wheel alignment measurement and strap slack question 2010 fxdwg

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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 03:14 PM
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Default Wheel alignment measurement and strap slack question 2010 fxdwg

On older harley you take the front ''nut''( with a hole in it )of the swing arm until the center of the axle;

Now on my bike the front nut as what I assume is a cap and the primary goes a bit in the way but on the swing arm theyre is a hole about 3.5 inch of the axle, my question being what is the right way of taking measurement, as I just made an Indy put a new tire I fear theyve done it wrong, if i take the hole until the axle i have a bit more than .5 inches difference. As if i take the front swingarm nut it is acceptable. While checking that I noticed a little play in the Wheel left side so I think a bearing is done but with 18000km ? really ?

Then for the belt tension (i know harley use a special tool that i dont have) on the plastic belt guard Under the bike theyre is a gauge what is the proper tension ? Mine is about near the top of it when i push on it (moves 3 quarter of an inch) feels too loose from my feeling but its not skipping any tooths and looks flawless.


Thanks for youre time
 
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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 03:35 PM
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Hi,

They reckon twist belt down at primary and should be able to twist it about 45degrees

Thanks
Mirrmu
 
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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 03:51 PM
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I have had mine on and off and replaced tire on the back couple times recently. If you count the turns of the adjusters and put them back the same, your belt tension stays about the same and wheel stays aligned. Hopefully the Indy did that if they didn't have the tension checking tool. Pushing on your belt with your hand won't help much unless you can push exactly 10 ftlbs or whatever it is to get 1/2" to 9/16" deflection, so you're probably gonna have to try that twist method.

To measure from the little holes on the swingarm you need to be able to find the dead center of each hole on the axle. I did that by getting some little metal plugs with holes in the center that slip into the axle. Again if you put the adjusters back where they were, and your wheel was initially aligned, this doesn't change much.
 

Last edited by cee; Jul 25, 2013 at 03:54 PM.
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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 07:51 PM
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Okay, thx, ill rerereconfirm tomorrow lol
 
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Reaper_ggy
Okay, thx, ill rerereconfirm tomorrow lol
I don't have access to my book right now. Maybe someone else can confirm. Or I'll confirm later when I have acces to my book.

Rear Tire Alignment uses the indentions on the swing arm measured to the center of the axle.

Belt tension measures "force against flex". I think the "force" measurement is about 10 lbs/ft. And the flex is like 5/8"???
 
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 09:06 AM
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To benefit others :

HD-35381-A H-D BELT TENSION GAUGE

Check rear belt deflection:


• As part of the pre-ride inspection.

• At every scheduled service interval.



When checking belt deflection:


• Set belt tension at tightest point in belt.

• Measure belt deflection with motorcycle cold and the



approximate weight of the owner on motorcycle.


1. See Figure 1-25. Obtain H-D BELT TENSION



GAUGE (Part No. HD-35381-A).


NOTE

Customers may purchase gauge from an authorized Harley-

Davidson dealer.



2. To use the belt tension gauge:

a. Slide O-ring (4) toward 0 lbs (0 kg) mark (3).

b. Fit belt cradle (2) against bottom of drive belt half-way


between drive pulleys (point 3 in Figure 1-26.)



c. Press upward on **** (6) until O-ring slides down to

10 lbs (4.5 kg) mark (5).


d. See Figure 1-27. Measure belt deflection as viewed



through deflection viewing window (2) while holding

gauge steady. Deflection graduations (3) are 1/8

in. (3.2 mm) apart.


3. See Figure 1-26. Check drive belt deflection. Apply 10



lbs (4.5 kg) of force upward at point 3.

4. Measure belt deflection several times, each time with belt

moved (by rotating rear wheel) to a different position on

sprockets.


5. Refer to Table 1-11. Compare drive belt deflection with



specifications listed in the table.


NOTE

Do not rely on "feel" for the proper deflection as this typically

results in belts which are under tensioned. Always use H-D

BELT TENSION GAUGE (Part No. HD-35381-A) to determine

the 10 lb. (4.5 kg) deflection force. Loose belts will fail due to

"ratcheting" (jumping a tooth) with resultant tensile cord

crimping and breakage.



Table 1-11. Rear Belt Deflection

FXDWG/FXD/FXDF FXDB/FXDC/FXDL

IN. MM IN. MM



With motorcycle on 5/16-3/8 7.9-9.5 1/4-5/16 6.4-7.9

jiffy stand without

rider or luggage

Vehicle upright with 1/2-9/16 12.7-14.3 5/16-3/8 7.9-9.5

rear wheel in air

 
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 09:07 AM
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ADJUSTMENT


If belt adjustment is necessary, perform the following procedure:


1. See Figure 1-28. Remove retaining ring (3) and loosen



axle nut (2).

2. Adjust belt tension by turning the axle adjusters (1) an

equal number of turns to keep the wheel aligned until the


specification in Table 1-11 is achieved.



3. Tighten axle nut (2) to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm).

4. Install retaining ring (3).


5. Tighten adjuster screws to 96-120 in-lbs (10.8-13.6 Nm).

6. Verify rear wheel alignment. See 2.11 VEHICLE ALIGNMENT.




Check wheel bearing end play after tightening axle nut to

specified torque. Excessive end play can adversely affect

stability and handling. Insufficient end play can cause

bearing seizure. Either condition can cause loss of control,

which could result in death or serious injury. (00285a)



7. Check wheel bearing end play. See 2.5 SEALED WHEEL




BEARINGS, Inspection
 
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 09:11 AM
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HD-48856 AXLE ALIGNMENT PLUG SET


Only a Harley-Davidson dealer should perform vehicle

alignment. Improper alignment can adversely affect stability

and handling, which could result in death or serious

injury. (00060a)

Check vehicle alignment according to following procedures.

Incorrect alignment can adversely affect stability and

handling, which could result in death or serious injury.

(00287a)



1. Verify wheels are true to specifications. See 2.9 TRUING

LACED WHEELS or 2.10 CHECKING CAST WHEEL




RUNOUT



2. Check steering head bearing adjustment and adjust if


necessary. See 2.18 STEERING HEAD.

3. See Figure 2-59. To ensure accurate measurements,



obtain a piece of 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) aluminum welding rod

12.25 in. (311 mm) long. Grind one end down to a blunt

point. With a pliers, bend the rod 90° as shown. Place a

snug fitting O-ring or cable strap on the rod to act as a

slide measurement indicator.

4. Obtain AXLE ALIGNMENT PLUG SET (Part No. HD-


48856). See Figure 2-57. Insert axle alignment plugs (1,



2) into left and right ends of rear axle.


5. See Figure 2-58. With the blunt point of the alignment tool



inserted in the rear fork pilot hole, slide the O-ring along

the tool until it is aligned with the center of the alignment

plug as shown. Measure and record distance from end of

tool to O-ring. Repeat for the other side of the motorcycle.


1

2

3


sm03937


1. Alignment plug (left side)

2. Alignment plug (right side)

3. Alignment hole

Figure 2-57. Axle Alignment Plugs



sm03771


Figure 2-58. Measuring Alignment



2

1

3


sm02240


1. O-ring

2. 1.25 in (32 mm)

3. 10.0 in (254 mm)

Figure 2-59. Alignment Tool



6. See Figure 2-60. The measurement between the center



of the rear axle and the rear fork hole must be equal to

within 1/32 in. (0.8 mm) on both sides of the motorcycle.

If it is not, adjust the rear wheel with the axle adjusters to

accomplish the equal measurement. It is extremely

important that this adjustment be made as accurately as

possible in order to make the remaining adjustments

accurate.

7. Raise the rear of the motorcycle so that the rear wheel

spins freely. Do this by placing a center stand or blocking

under the frame.


8. See Figure 2-61. Remove the bolt (2) which attaches the



top stabilizer link (1) to the engine mounting bracket.

9. Position front wheel so brake disc is vertical using an

inclinometer. If possible, use a digital inclinometer for the

best accuracy.


2-30
The exhaust system must be in place while performing

the following steps.



• Motorcycle must be upright and level before performing




this procedure.



• Stabilizer link should only be loosened/adjusted on end




with threads showing. Adjusting or loosening other end

will tear the isolator.



• There should be 0.25 in. (6.4 mm) minimum clearance




between the fuel tank tunnel and the head of the left stabilizer

link mounting bolt.



10. Loosen jam nut (3) on stabilizer link. Adjust the stabilizer

so that the bolt removed in previous step can be reinstalled

without pushing the engine to the right or left. Tighten jam

nut.

11. Check the rear brake disc with the inclinometer to ensure

that it is parallel to the front brake disc.

12. If the rear brake disc is not parallel to the front brake disc,

adjust the top stabilizer link until the rear brake is parallel

to within 1 degree of the front brake disc's position.

13. If you cannot adjust the front and rear brake discs to within

1°, inspect the frame, front fork and/or rear fork for

damage.


To prevent damage to fuel tank and possible fire or

explosion, which could cause death or serious injury,

maintain clearance specified in service manual between

fuel tank and head of left stabilizing link mounting bolt.

(00262a)



14. If you have to adjust the top stabilizer link more than five

full turns to bring the brake discs to specification, again

inspect the frame, front fork and/or rear fork for damage.

15. Tighten the stabilizer jam nut (3).


NOTE

If the stabilizer link has been adjusted more than five full turns,

the vehicle's vibration will very likely have reached an unacceptable

level. Adjust the vehicle's vibration level as follows:



16. Be sure the transmission is in neutral.

17. Loosen, but do not remove, ALL the mounting bolts on

the engine isolators and start the engine. Let the engine

run for approximately 5 seconds. This will center the

mounts on the frame and power train assembly.

18. Tighten isolator mounting bolts to 25 ft-lbs (33.9 Nm).


2

3 4

1


sm02469


1. Top stabilizer link

2. Bolt

3. Jam nut

4. Adjusting stud (nut)

Figure 2-61.Top Stabilizer






 
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 11:12 AM
  #9  
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Ya that's just what I was going to say. Well my memory wasn't to far off.

Just an FYI on the belt tension. The HD Service tech told me that he fist does a hand check on belt tightness. And he only gets out the guage if he suspects a problem. He said that the force required to flex the belt ( when sufficiently tight ) should increase exponentially after exceeding the maximum flex rating. So you should be able to flex the belt by hand to the setpoint. But it should take an extreame amount of force to go beyond that.
 

Last edited by FXDWG12; Jul 26, 2013 at 11:21 AM.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 12:16 PM
  #10  
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Good enough lol, hey just for the record after taking everything apart the slack somewhere between pivot bolt swingarm and the wheel or bearing is magically gone test drive it 4x time about 30kms and cant reproduce it either on the road and in the garage, thats pretty much f*cked up if you ask me. Didnt find anything wrong in the process, the only minors thingy were the belt a bit slack to my taste gave her .25 turn each side confirmed that the pivot bolt of the swingarm was tigh ... anyhow ... I started a thread on that but cant find an answer both virtually and in the manual, is that bolt suppose to turn around if you dont lock the other side with a box ? Ive looked at the exploded schematic and theres alot of thing in there lol
 
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