but if u reread my post you may notice i wasnt comparing anything, i was simply providing an opinion on which cams gave the most performance that i had experience with.

 

I have the 204's myself and really like them, but for what you want the 255's might be the better call.

 

Same here with my Wood TW-222s.
I would recommend either the 48H or TW-222 cams to anyone.

I think many people put way too much of a cam in their otherwise stock bikes and expect amazing results, then are disappointed when they don't get what they expected. A lot of the hotter cams make great power when combined with other mods such as compression increases & head work, but some don't start making that power until 3,000-3,500 rpms. That's great for some people that run the hell out of their bikes, but for the rest of us the 2,000-4,500 prm range is where most of the real world riding is spent.

I read where people have put a hot race cam in their otherwise stock bike & wonder why they're not seeing results during normal riding situations...
People have gotta be realistic & honest with themselves about how they ride & where you want your power & how & where it's going to improve performance.

For 90% of riders, having low grunt & mid-range power is what it's all about in real world riding. I know there are some that ride at high rpms and run the hell out of their bikes, and this doesn't apply to them, but they are the exception.

For an otherwise stock (mechanically) bike, here are some cams that should be on your list if you're wanting some grunt. I highly recommend the Wood TW-222 or Andrews 48H as the best options IMO. There are others, but IMO those 2 are the best....great low end grunt, makes 6th usable at 55, run out well at higher rpms, good intake to exhaust timing balanced, good lift, will make less heat, all around great performers. These two cams will perform almost identical in the real world and on the dyno.

Wood TW-222 - great low grunt, runs out nice, good all around 2-6k rpms. These cams are designed by Bob Wood, but are manufactured by Andrews using Bob Wood's grind specs.
I-14/34
E-34/14
L- .555
D- 228/228

Andrews 48H - similar specs as the TW-222 and results will be nearly the same.
I- 13/29
E- 43/15
L - .548
D - 222/238

SE 204 - most underated SE bolt-in cam. Longer durations with less lift & doesn't have the grunt of the above 2, but great mid-rpm and all around good cam.
I- 22/34
E- 52/8
L- .508
D- 236/240

SE 255 - great for low end grunt, but over 4,000 the above will outperform easily. Also make a lot of heat. There are better choices.
I- 6/25
E- 48/7
L- .556
D- 211/235

S&S 583...good low rpm grunt cam, but like the SE 255, there are better choices. Too short on intake duration and too long on exhaust duration to make a good balanced cam.
I- 5/18
E- 58/24
L- 583/583
D- 203/262

 

need a power vision map for a 2008 HD streetglide with SE211 cams, SE air cleaner, slip on mufflers, no service from OEM of power vision so far, disappointed to say the least

 

Andrews 48H is a very solid low to mid rpms cam.

Btw, can anyone provide a basic PC5 map for 48h / Arlen Ness Big Sucker / 2-in-1 exhaust?

 

Joking right?
Trying to unload your cam you don't need to make some cash off a guy that has a stock bike, and which the .640's won't even fit-valve to piston and springs?
Even if it did fit, a stock compression 88" would just fall on its face with a .640-

Anyway, OP,
Lots of good suggestions here and the .255's are a great pulling low range cam profile but designed for much heavier baggers.
If you have the cash, I would do everything at once.
Upgrade to bigger cubes, slight piston compression upgrade, cam, pipe, AC, maybe head porting, and a great tune all at once. You won't need a .255 to give you more grunt in the low end. You can upgrade to a more all around performance cam that will give your lighter weight Dyna low, middle and top end fun.
If you want some easy grunt but don't want to do everything now, a primary gearing change a little deeper will make your bike pull harder from a light, and in the meantime, save your coin for the motor upgrade.
Several companies (S&S and others), make a one stop shopping upgrade to do everything in one pop.
Now that will put a smile on your face...

 

Weird response to a 2 1/2 year old thread in the Dyna section... you'll have better luck asking in the engine tuner section of the forum.