When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Very interested to hear some more ride reports on these things. Might just have to order one and throw it on.
On mine it made a big difference. I'm sure results will vary based on your stock setup and condition but for my bike it's a big difference in stability and vibrations. Yes it still shakes some but it's at less of the rpms and less of it transmits to the bike.
Mine got delivered today, probably install it by the weekend.
Just an FYI to my fellow Canucks... expect to pay about CDN $355 with exchange, shipping, taxes AND duties shipped to your door, about 3 days, COD for the tax and duty.
Still not a bad deal considering HD Canada wants about $200 (tax in) for the OEM piece of rubber.
Installed! Easy job, just needed to run out and get a set of metric Allen sockets so I could torque the bolts properly.
This appears to have solved my issue of the front header rubbing on the frame tube, there's at least a quarter inch clearance now. original mount must have been sagging quite a bit.
Now I just have to finish re-wiring the aux lights and put the rest of the bike back together and then enjoy a test ride. Weather's looking promising the next couple days
installed mine this afternoon
looking foward to test ride
here is a pick of the stock bracket that goes between the motor and the isolator, this is the bottom, it looks like it has been rubbing, almost rubbed the number stamp through in one part , i dont know if this is typical but i doubt it is suppose to be that way
Went for my first ride on this bike yesterday. Don't know how bad the original mounts were but I'm pretty happy with the V-T mount. Mirrors are useable, unlike my previous rubbermount Sportster. Handles reasonably well although the rear is a little squirrly, I'll chalk that up to a worn Dunlop. We'll see if that goes away when I put on the new Mich Commander IIs that are sitting in my garage.
Curious if anyone on here had a true track and replaced it with this mount? Leaving the rear true track on. I shimmed my front original mount. The true track is a good product it really stabilized my bike but it caused a constant vibration regardless or RPM. I know this is simply because it is an un isolated connection from engine to frame. When i ride with others i cant tell who it is because my mirrors vibrate so bad now.
I aint knocking the true track, its a great well built product but i would love to know if anyone has replaced the front true track with this one?
The important thing to understand is the development of this mount was brought about by the poor vibration isolation of the OEM front mount. They were able to additionally incorporate a stabilizer link which as we all know is a benefit. A lot of guys go through OEM mounts every 10k miles or so. Hopefully with this design that won't happen anymore and at the same time less vibes would be nice.
I can't speak long term as there's a bunch of snow and ice out there now so I haven't given it a proper break in yet.
I also wanted to share this from the development thread (from the designer of the V-T mount):
"I have done a lot of work trying to evaluate the cause of shimming and what it does etc.
Going back to basics for a moment, the bike is built up of 2 halves. The engine, transmission and swing arm is one unit. The frame and front forks are the another. The two are held together by the mounts and the rear springs. Now the tricky bit. Due to the fact the rear shocks are at around 40 degrees to the vertical, this results in a pulling force which it trying to drag the engine and transmission backwards in the frame. The higher the vertical load, the more the rearward pull. This causes the rear mount to shear backwards within the available rubber section and the end result is that If you disconnect the front mount with the back wheel loaded up you get a gap between the front mount and the frame. Even if the load is taken of there may be sufficient "creep" in the rubber to still let the mount sit back slightly.
The upshot of this rearward displacement is that the top of the front mount, which is at 45 degrees to the horizontal is pulled back onto the rubber buffer section on the insulator, closing the gap that is needed to allow the engine to move. Shimming this gap makes the inner part of the mount move back and opening up the gap again allowing the mount to work as it should. until it sags further.
So basically shimming the OEM mount allows clearance within the mount to allow it to work as it should.
From reading forum posts on the subject elsewhere there does seem to be more of an issue with some later bikes. This could be partly to do with the increased power output but I suspect it could also be down to quality issues with the part, hence the service bulletin M-1324 with the rather curious (and nonsensical) note... The Dyna engine isolators stretch over time. For this reason, replacing the isolator may not provide the best results as the existing mount has already stretched.
The big gain for our mount, apart from the fact its not susceptible to this shimming requirement, is the in built stabiliser link that prevents the front of the engine moving laterally, giving improved handling.
We have just started to look at the rear mount but its tough because the basic design is fundamentally very cleaver and works well so we are not sure what gains there are to be had other than reducing this rearward movement under load."
It has me thinking that a lot of us (myself included) are falsely shimming the front OEM mount. When I replaced my OEM with a new OEM the gap was significant with the top more so than the bottom. .however my rear wheel was off the ground as well. It's possible all that weight caused the driveline to sag creating the gap. Just some observations.
Good point. I like yourself made a shim but when i did it i had the bike on its wheels carefully jacked the engine to as close to neutral as i could and the lower bolts completely backed off. I made the shim to that size. My thought is that all lower mounts should have positive pressure on them, not negative or pulling. I cant think of a better way to do it than in a static position as it would be hard to measure riding with it loose to see.
Curious if anyone on here had a true track and replaced it with this mount? Leaving the rear true track on. I shimmed my front original mount. The true track is a good product it really stabilized my bike but it caused a constant vibration regardless or RPM. I know this is simply because it is an un isolated connection from engine to frame. When i ride with others i cant tell who it is because my mirrors vibrate so bad now.
I aint knocking the true track, its a great well built product but i would love to know if anyone has replaced the front true track with this one?
i did that but havent riddin it yet since it was just last night that i installed it. i left the rear true track in place obviously. I would like to ride it a couple hundred miles before i really say what i think. But yea, my true track increased vibes for sure. i can say this 100%, the new mount looks alot better that the old stock one with the true track
bike is smooth higher in rpm range, actually it is very smoth at higher rpms, i found myself wanting to stay cruisin in 5th more to stay in the smooth zone.To be in the smooth zone in 6th i got to be cruisin about 85.
lower rpms and on rpm decel actually vibrates more, anything under 2500 vibrates more than before, which will take alittle getting use to but seems like a good trade off to be smooth at speed.
im sure my cams contribute to the low rpm roughness, they have always wanted to be higher in the range (andrews 37's)
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
