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Any tips on putting back tire back on??

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Old May 3, 2014 | 11:00 PM
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vatoloco5
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Default Any tips on putting back tire back on??

I removed the back tire with out a problem and now im having a little problem putting it back. The main problem is the brake caliper. Ive seen some videos where the caliper just slides in and out of the mounting slot with easy but mine does not and gets caught up on the rubber piece in the center space. I can only slide about half of it and there is space left between the caliper space and mount. is there suppose to be space or is it suppose to be flush? thanks
 
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Old May 3, 2014 | 11:26 PM
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Use a gentle persuader (RUBBER MALLET) lightly strike the caliper housing. It will slide in pretty as you please. Mine did tonight with new Commander II and new Lyndall pads.
 
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Old May 4, 2014 | 12:54 AM
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Adding to what Sharpie has stated i found a 6 pack also helps with the frustrations
 
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Old May 4, 2014 | 01:24 AM
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i will have the back off the ground and put a 2x4 under the tire so i can use it to jiggle the tire into place, but thats after i took some sewing thread and use it to hold the brake pads in place
 
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Old May 4, 2014 | 01:29 AM
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Hi,

Pretty sure i removed caliper off the mount, also put left spacer first and put socket or dowel thru it into axle to hold in place then do right side

You want swingarm at height so wheel just off ground and you not having to hold wheel up

Thanks
Mirrmu
 
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Old May 4, 2014 | 02:31 AM
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I have watched the HD teks put my wheels back on ans they always remove the brake padss. Be sure you have the spacers on thee right side in case they are not the same thickness.
 
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Old May 4, 2014 | 08:05 AM
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I'll try to add to what I did to reinstall my rear wheel, with a new tire and new brake pads. Install the brake caliper mounting arm until it lines up with the axle hole. You have to have the wheel and tire semi in place as they will not pass by the caliper mount with it in the correct place. You Jack needs to be low enough the you do not have to lift the wheel to do this. I have the jack low enough so that the wheel only has to be lifted about an inch or so anyway.

Next put a 3/4" dowel or broken piece of broom or mop handle into the right side of the axle hole and slide it through the swingarm, tension adjuster, caliper arm, spacer, wheel, left spacer, left tension adjuster and left swingarm. You should now have the wheel pretty much in place being held with the wooden dowel.

Now take the caliper and place it on top of the rotor in alignment with the mounting arm. Lightly tap on the caliper to make it slide down onto the rotor. Once on the rotor , lightly tap it forward so the caliper engages into the mounting arm. Install the top right bolt first then wiggle the caliper until the bottom caliper bolt lines up with its hole. Install this caliper bolt but do not torque it down.

Now take your axle and coat it with antiseize starting at the threaded end. Do not put any on the threads and only apply to half of the length of the axle at this time. Now take the axle and start pushing the dowel rod out with the axle. You may have to wiggle the wheel a little with your foot to make the axle slide. When you reach the point on the axle where you have stopped applying antiseize, stop and coat the rest of the axle. Now slide the rest if the axle through until the dowel falls out and the axle is in place. Put the nut and washer on the axle but do not torque.

Raise the swingarm and mount the shocks but do not torque to spec. Adjust the belt tension. Reinstall belt guards. Tighten the brake caliper to spec. Tighten the shock bye to spec. Check belt tension again. If tension is ok, torque axle bolt and install keeper on the end of the axle.

Now what did I forget?
 
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Old May 4, 2014 | 12:41 PM
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Wow all I can say is the procedure for removing and replaceing my fatbob rear wheel is much less complicated. The first time I watched the HD tek dismount my wheel he did not romove any shocks or belt guards. he removed the brake pads and , the retaining clip, then the axle nut and axle and the wheel slid out in less than 5 minutes. And I have watched two guys do it exactly the same way.
I feel bad for you man, with that much work involved I would say give them the 25$ and let them do it!
Changing out both tires is usually less than one hour total.
 
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Old May 4, 2014 | 10:09 PM
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Thanks for the advise fellas i finally got her back on.. and the six pack definitely helped with the frustration.
 
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Old May 4, 2014 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by maddghost
Wow all I can say is the procedure for removing and replaceing my fatbob rear wheel is much less complicated. The first time I watched the HD tek dismount my wheel he did not romove any shocks or belt guards. he removed the brake pads and , the retaining clip, then the axle nut and axle and the wheel slid out in less than 5 minutes. And I have watched two guys do it exactly the same way.
I feel bad for you man, with that much work involved I would say give them the 25$ and let them do it!
Changing out both tires is usually less than one hour total.
If all it cost were $25 then I would probably pay that. So your only paying $25 to remove and reinstall for about an hours labor????? With a table that has a rear drop plate, you can pull the tire out the bottom. Most people do not have a table and most don't have a MC jack. Taking two bolts out of the bottom of the shocks is the most simple part of the whole procedure. So what did the tire cost you to get a $25 install?
 
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