When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
There are quite a few YouTube videos on how to do this but at a minimum you'll need four tie down straps. Attach two of the straps around the inner part of the handle bars and evenly compress the front suspension 50-75%...basically the minimum needed to hold it steady and secure but not too much to blow out the seals/you'll want some travel for bumps. The other two straps go to the lower rear rails and tighten those enough to keep the back from bouncing around. I use a wheel chock on the front tire for extra peace of mind.
My suggestion would be to do first things first and google lock-n-load motorcycle wheel chocks. If you tie straps around your handle bars and compress the forks to secure the bike you may have forks seals to replace when you get to your destination. I found this out the hard way.
My suggestion would be to do first things first and google lock-n-load motorcycle wheel chocks. If you tie straps around your handle bars and compress the forks to secure the bike you may have forks seals to replace when you get to your destination. I found this out the hard way.
Never tie the bike down from the handle bars. Not only might you have issues with fprk seals, you are going to ruin your handle bar riser bushings.
Go around the inside of the fork lower leg. Gives you great lateral support without compressing your front suspension. Rear straps depend on the bike and what can you attach to, I don't know your model bike well enough to offer advise but rear peg mounts seem to work on a lot of models.
A Pingel wheel chock is also a good and cheap investment. Something like a Condor is even better, but more money.
A wheel chock is mandatory. One strap around each side of the lower tree pulling out and forward. Another strap to go around the front wheel and suck it into the wheel chock. For the back tie down I use the rear peg mounts. Compress the forks about 50-60% and use bungies on the front straps to keep them from coming loose if you hit a bump. As already mentioned DO NOT USE HANDLEBARS FOR SECURING BIKE!
Harley-Davidson Fat Boy Becomes a Dark, Decepticon-Inspired Custom
Slideshow: Killer Custom's latest build relies on styling changes rather than performance upgrades, giving the cruiser an entirely different personality.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.