View Poll Results: bike wont start when engine hot
engine hot wont start
1
50.00%
starts when cold
2
100.00%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 2. You may not vote on this poll
Starting
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 18,282
Likes: 3,687
From: backwoods
But I feel free to add something technical and disagree with something I wrote
Clicking does usually imply bad battery. But I still find it interesting it starts just fine cold. .
Does the leave it on tender,so he doesn't know the battery is bad until he leaves?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,113
Likes: 666
Since no one has mentioned it I thought I’d toss this idea out there…
If the bike has been reprogrammed or tuned there’s a possibility the compression releases are not enabled.
When the engine is cold it turns over with a lot less effort than when hot, which accounts for why no problem cold but balks when trying to start hot.
If you were to do just a compression test if the compression is over 170psi then the releases are not working. When the releases are working about 120psi is normal
Let us know what you find
Bob
If the bike has been reprogrammed or tuned there’s a possibility the compression releases are not enabled.
When the engine is cold it turns over with a lot less effort than when hot, which accounts for why no problem cold but balks when trying to start hot.
If you were to do just a compression test if the compression is over 170psi then the releases are not working. When the releases are working about 120psi is normal
Let us know what you find
Bob
Thread Starter
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4th Gear
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 8
Likes: 3
From: RSA
Without a voltage/ohm meter, your options are pretty much dependent on a service center. Clean and tight may help but you need to know how much voltage is hitting the small wire on starter.
If that's good and a CCA and battery tested good, it may be starter.
It will need load tested for amp draw.
A crude battery test is cranking, it should not drop below 9.7 volts with meter attached to maintance charger connections. (That's a stock Harley)
My Harley does the same as the battery comes near the end of its life.
I only use maintenance charger occasionally when I rode regular.
Especially coming off it, and cold, all was good. Short 5 mile ride to the gym, maybe a stop for a few groceries, then fuel and by then, I got a grunt till it cleared the last fuel vapor left when you shut a FI bike down.
Ever four years or so, I got a new battery. I just got the cheap AGM at Walmart. Four years for a $100 or so.
I got five years out of the Harley branded one. The last year I put up with grunts and starter bangs from voltage dropping and solenoid electric magnet dropping the starter drive gear out.
When it does that, the tin men love to try to sell you compensators and starter sprag clutches.
If that's good and a CCA and battery tested good, it may be starter.
It will need load tested for amp draw.
A crude battery test is cranking, it should not drop below 9.7 volts with meter attached to maintance charger connections. (That's a stock Harley)
My Harley does the same as the battery comes near the end of its life.
I only use maintenance charger occasionally when I rode regular.
Especially coming off it, and cold, all was good. Short 5 mile ride to the gym, maybe a stop for a few groceries, then fuel and by then, I got a grunt till it cleared the last fuel vapor left when you shut a FI bike down.
Ever four years or so, I got a new battery. I just got the cheap AGM at Walmart. Four years for a $100 or so.
I got five years out of the Harley branded one. The last year I put up with grunts and starter bangs from voltage dropping and solenoid electric magnet dropping the starter drive gear out.
When it does that, the tin men love to try to sell you compensators and starter sprag clutches.
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