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Battery cable help on an FXR

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Old Apr 22, 2026 | 11:17 AM
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Default Battery cable help on an FXR

Anyone have a good tutorial video or step by step guide on swapping battery cables on an evo FXR? I’m chasing an intermittent gremlin and I can’t find one on youtube and the factory manual just shows a vague photo for routing and no details, but it seems accessing the mounting points requires a few steps (possible removal of oil tank) I’d like to see before digging in.

Issue started after I swapped the battery and the terminals are tight so I want to rule out damaged cables/ground etc… Thanks
 

Last edited by Thingfish; Apr 22, 2026 at 12:42 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2026 | 12:59 PM
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Step 1: Get the battery load tested to verify you have a good battery. Even though it is a new battery, you sometimes get a bad one. Then go from there before swapping out parts.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2026 | 01:27 PM
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Yes, sorry I was trying to be brief. Battery is tested. Charging is fine. Bike runs great until about 40 minutes and then cuts out completely at speed… lights, motor, everything….for about 5 seconds, then comes right back…seems to be vibration related. Cables are tight at the battery end and also at the ground connections, so I want to remove and examine the cables for issues and clean the contacts. It seems straight forward until I try to access them with a wrench. Some folks have an instinct to just figure it out, but I like a little idea of what’s expected before I start. The factory manual has zero info on the procedure for accessing the connections. It just has an arrow on a photo pointing out where they run on the frame.

Also, this is for a ‘00 FXR4, but I “assume” the frame routing logistics are the same for evo FXRs
 

Last edited by Thingfish; Apr 22, 2026 at 02:03 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2026 | 08:02 PM
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Are the cables tight or are the bolts tight.
Sometimes if a battery is replaced and the old longer bolts are used instead of the new replacement bolts it causes bolt to be tight but cable is loose.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2026 | 08:05 PM
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Alternatively, a compromised key switch.
If bike starts....hitting hard parts with a rubber hammer can help isolate an area.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2026 | 08:09 PM
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Cables are tight. Wondered if there could be a crack along the route which is why I’d like to remove and inspect them. I thought about the key switch, but timing with doing the battery swap made me think that’s what I messed with.….I’ll try the rubber hammer method.
 

Last edited by Thingfish; Apr 22, 2026 at 08:32 PM.
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Old Apr 24, 2026 | 07:08 PM
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Replace the main breaker.. Also check the terminals on the wired going to the breaker. Chances are, they have poor connections, overheating the breaker.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2026 | 10:57 PM
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Thanks Max. I did the breaker. Everything looked good. Definitely a candidate for trouble, but would still like to check my battery cables as issue started after I swapped the battery so it seems like a good bet something with the cables aren’t happy. The connections on both ends are tight and “look” ok so I was thinking maybe an issue somewhere in the middle? I’m surprise the factory manual has nothing about servicing or disconnecting them.

Haven’t test ridden since swapping the breaker yet only because I want to check the cables first. I’m still smarting from the last time I rode it and had to push it home from a few miles away. I’ll have to bite the bullet and try it, but just want one more ounce of peace of mind.
 

Last edited by Thingfish; Apr 25, 2026 at 01:26 AM.
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Old Apr 25, 2026 | 09:03 AM
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Charging is fine. Bike runs great until about 40 minutes and then cuts out completely at speed… lights, motor, everything….for about 5 seconds, then comes right back
By you saying this, I say it's 90% the breaker.. A bad battery cables is typically going to cause slow cranking. Battery cables don't just open up then reconnect.. If anything other, it'd have to be a loose connection in the wiring to the ignition switch, fuse block or inside the ignition switch..
 
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Old Apr 25, 2026 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
By you saying this, I say it's 90% the breaker.. A bad battery cables is typically going to cause slow cranking. Battery cables don't just open up then reconnect.. If anything other, it'd have to be a loose connection in the wiring to the ignition switch, fuse block or inside the ignition switch..
Appreciate this Max. Encouraging analysis. I’m not much for electronics and I just blamed the last thing I touched with my two left feet. All wires seemed solid and my wiring is all factory and clean looking so I’ll take it for “push friendly” spin today to test it out.
 
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