Head Removal - TC96
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 312
From: Out of Commiefornia!
Head Removal - TC96
I'd like to get some headwork done on my '07 Fatboy, and have been doing a lot of research for a while now. I took it to my local indy who did my cams last year, and got sticker shock when talking about having them do the work... numbers were far outside of my budget.
Aside from the cams, I've done all my own wrenching on my bike, and have a long background doing mechanical projects. I also have a fairly complete and comprehensive toolset.
I dug into the service manual today, as I have been contemplating doing the work myself anyway, and seeing how much it would cost to have someone else do it I believe I'm just going to have to dig in and do it.
For those who have done so yourselves, can you give me an idea how involved the project might get to remove and replace the heads only? Not interested in doing a big bore kit or anything more, just get the heads worked and milled and install a cometic .030 gasket so it flows better and has a bump in compression.
Thanks to all for your input!
Roger
Aside from the cams, I've done all my own wrenching on my bike, and have a long background doing mechanical projects. I also have a fairly complete and comprehensive toolset.
I dug into the service manual today, as I have been contemplating doing the work myself anyway, and seeing how much it would cost to have someone else do it I believe I'm just going to have to dig in and do it.
For those who have done so yourselves, can you give me an idea how involved the project might get to remove and replace the heads only? Not interested in doing a big bore kit or anything more, just get the heads worked and milled and install a cometic .030 gasket so it flows better and has a bump in compression.
Thanks to all for your input!
Roger
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
From: Minnesota
Very easy. Remove the tank, exhaust, and intake manifold. Take off the rocker covers. Remove the rockers and push rods. Take out the head bolts. Done.
When removing the heads try not to disturb the jugs. Have someone hold them down as you wiggle the heads off.
Good luck, keep us posted!
Dave
When removing the heads try not to disturb the jugs. Have someone hold them down as you wiggle the heads off.
Good luck, keep us posted!
Dave
Sponsor
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 12,084
Likes: 829
I'd like to get some headwork done on my '07 Fatboy, and have been doing a lot of research for a while now. I took it to my local indy who did my cams last year, and got sticker shock when talking about having them do the work... numbers were far outside of my budget.
Aside from the cams, I've done all my own wrenching on my bike, and have a long background doing mechanical projects. I also have a fairly complete and comprehensive toolset.
I dug into the service manual today, as I have been contemplating doing the work myself anyway, and seeing how much it would cost to have someone else do it I believe I'm just going to have to dig in and do it.
For those who have done so yourselves, can you give me an idea how involved the project might get to remove and replace the heads only? Not interested in doing a big bore kit or anything more, just get the heads worked and milled and install a cometic .030 gasket so it flows better and has a bump in compression.
Thanks to all for your input!
Roger
Aside from the cams, I've done all my own wrenching on my bike, and have a long background doing mechanical projects. I also have a fairly complete and comprehensive toolset.
I dug into the service manual today, as I have been contemplating doing the work myself anyway, and seeing how much it would cost to have someone else do it I believe I'm just going to have to dig in and do it.
For those who have done so yourselves, can you give me an idea how involved the project might get to remove and replace the heads only? Not interested in doing a big bore kit or anything more, just get the heads worked and milled and install a cometic .030 gasket so it flows better and has a bump in compression.
Thanks to all for your input!
Roger
We JUST set a client up with our Stage II Heads, on his 96"er, with an Andrews 37.
Classic H-D, in Leesport, PA, is doing the install and tune.
It'll be a great bump in overall power for him.
Scott
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 712
Likes: 55
From: Punta Gorda, Florida
If you have mechanical experience and understand the terminolgy in the manual, you'll be able to handle it. You need a torque wrench to do the job. Follow the manual explicity although I think the process of torqing the head bolts down with a Cometic .030 head gasket may be slightlly different from the manual, can't recall at the moment. The rocker bolts on the left side of the rear cylinder are a pita, just take your time. Check your ccp before you fire it up the 1st time. I used Hillside and am glad I did.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,776
Likes: 2,607
From: san antonio
R/R heads is straight forward; good advice already given; take your time, follow the service manual and do not disturb the oring seal between the cylinders and the case or you will have to R/R the cylinders and insall a new base o-ring. I use 1/2" PVC couplings and the short head bolts to hold the cylinder in place after the heads have been removed.
You did not mention which cams you are running but you will need to use the Bigboyz calculator to work out the chamber volume to hit the target compression you are looking for.
The '06 and later heads actually flow pretty well. IMHO, you would benefit more from a big bore upgrade than headwork, assuming you are running "bolt in" cams. Just something to think about. Built a 95" with a friend and he replace his early heads with a set of '06 heads, no porting just valve job, new guide seals, OEM springs and valves, chambers cc's and decked for 9.6 static with a set of TTW37 cams. Engine made 103TQ/96HP.
You did not mention which cams you are running but you will need to use the Bigboyz calculator to work out the chamber volume to hit the target compression you are looking for.
The '06 and later heads actually flow pretty well. IMHO, you would benefit more from a big bore upgrade than headwork, assuming you are running "bolt in" cams. Just something to think about. Built a 95" with a friend and he replace his early heads with a set of '06 heads, no porting just valve job, new guide seals, OEM springs and valves, chambers cc's and decked for 9.6 static with a set of TTW37 cams. Engine made 103TQ/96HP.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 312
From: Out of Commiefornia!
Thanks for the advice folks.
Good tip about the PVC couplings, and thanks to both for the warning about not displacing the jugs!
I'm running the Andrews 31h cams, and they are spec'd to require between 9.8 and 10.2 compression, which is one of the main reasons I wanted to do this. Not looking for a huge bump, and don't care about bar room dyno numbers... it runs decently now, just wanting to let it breathe a bit better and bump the compression up towards the target range for the cams.
Looked like a simple and relatively cheap upgrade, as long as I do the work myself. The manual is clear and easy enough to follow, and with your encouragement I'm confident I can get 'er done.
Thanks again!
Roger
Good tip about the PVC couplings, and thanks to both for the warning about not displacing the jugs!
I'm running the Andrews 31h cams, and they are spec'd to require between 9.8 and 10.2 compression, which is one of the main reasons I wanted to do this. Not looking for a huge bump, and don't care about bar room dyno numbers... it runs decently now, just wanting to let it breathe a bit better and bump the compression up towards the target range for the cams.
Looked like a simple and relatively cheap upgrade, as long as I do the work myself. The manual is clear and easy enough to follow, and with your encouragement I'm confident I can get 'er done.
Thanks again!
Roger
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,776
Likes: 2,607
From: san antonio
You will need to remove .050"-.060" from the head surface to get static about 10:1; 78cc to 80cc chambers. Like I said in my previous, the '06 heads flow pretty well and don't need much work. A Bigboyz, or someone elses, basic street port, is all you need.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 66,948
Likes: 4,573
From: TOAK western branch
Good advice! Couldnt find any vids for head removal.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwIF0...E6DAE024D327BF
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haQ17...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwIF0...E6DAE024D327BF
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haQ17...eature=related
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Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 312
From: Out of Commiefornia!
Thanks for the links to the videos - I had checked and also didn't find any for removing the heads, but those were interesting and helpful.
I had a good conversation with Bean the other day, and he was really helpful in talking through what I want to do and how my thought process aligns with my planning. For now, I just want to bump the compression a bit to accommodate my cams, and while I'm at it allow the heads to flow a bit better. If I was looking for bigger gains, I'd be going big - much bigger. As Bean said, you can only get so much out of a V-Twin without going up in size, as nothing beats cubic inches and for any size motor the specs will be within a certain relatively close range. You can move the slider to the left or right, depending on your riding style, based on the cams especially, but you can only get so much out of a 96" or 103", and any bigger than that you have to get into the bottom end and the costs go up considerably. If I was going to do something like that, and I may in a year or two, I'd be going considerably bigger to get into the higher power ranges.
For my current desires, I'm just going to pull the heads myself, send them to Big Boyz for a street port and some mild milling, and target around 9.6 or 9.7:1 compression. I'll install the Cometic .030 gaskets, and that should give me the modest boost I'm looking for at this point.
Based on my riding style, where I tend to use higher RPM ranges than some, the compression doesn't matter as significantly as someone who uses more of the left side of the curve. This will also allow me to refrain from having to do compression releases at this time.
At the point I decide to go big, I'll do it right and move up to at least a 117" build with new higher quality heads, bigger valves, reinforced crank, larger throttle body and injectors, and the associated costs that go along with that level of ponies.
Thanks again for the input folks!
Roger
I had a good conversation with Bean the other day, and he was really helpful in talking through what I want to do and how my thought process aligns with my planning. For now, I just want to bump the compression a bit to accommodate my cams, and while I'm at it allow the heads to flow a bit better. If I was looking for bigger gains, I'd be going big - much bigger. As Bean said, you can only get so much out of a V-Twin without going up in size, as nothing beats cubic inches and for any size motor the specs will be within a certain relatively close range. You can move the slider to the left or right, depending on your riding style, based on the cams especially, but you can only get so much out of a 96" or 103", and any bigger than that you have to get into the bottom end and the costs go up considerably. If I was going to do something like that, and I may in a year or two, I'd be going considerably bigger to get into the higher power ranges.
For my current desires, I'm just going to pull the heads myself, send them to Big Boyz for a street port and some mild milling, and target around 9.6 or 9.7:1 compression. I'll install the Cometic .030 gaskets, and that should give me the modest boost I'm looking for at this point.
Based on my riding style, where I tend to use higher RPM ranges than some, the compression doesn't matter as significantly as someone who uses more of the left side of the curve. This will also allow me to refrain from having to do compression releases at this time.
At the point I decide to go big, I'll do it right and move up to at least a 117" build with new higher quality heads, bigger valves, reinforced crank, larger throttle body and injectors, and the associated costs that go along with that level of ponies.
Thanks again for the input folks!
Roger
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 838
Likes: 35
From: Northern California
I just got done stripping down the top end on my '07 Dyna a few hours ago. Heads and cylinders are all boxed up ready for the machine shop. I cannot believe how easy it was to work on a H-D. With a good set of hand tools, it is extremely easy. Just follow the service manual exactly, and it will walk you through top end disassembly. Everyone on the forums kept saying what a bear it was to work on the rear cylinder because of the frame. I don't know what they are talking about - there was plenty of room. The most difficult step was removing the TB. The LH socket heads were straightforward, the RH ones took a couple of tricks. Once that is out, you can completely strip the valve covers, rocker housings, heads, cylinders and pistons in two hours. Another thing - you may have to use a breaker bar on the head bolts; I did. Oh yeah - wear safety glasses when you remove the piston wrist pin circlips.
Next step - off for 103" conversion and P&P!
Next step - off for 103" conversion and P&P!