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A Few q's after cam install

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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 08:09 PM
  #21  
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slyedog
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Make sure when you use bolt cutters your on the base of the cam lobe and you can kind of spin the pushrods before cutting them. Then do the same for the other head. Also have 3 wrenches around usually( 2) 1/2" and a 5/16" to adjust them. If you follow the manual pay attention as there is a removal and install sequence to both the cam cover and the cam plate. When I was done upon first start it popped right off but sounded horrible for first minute or two and as oil worked its way through it got quiet as I have ever heard it be. Don't get to scared of noise unless it continues for a extended period without gradually quietly down as the lifters prime and oil circulates back through the system.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 10:41 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by slyedog
Make sure when you use bolt cutters your on the base of the cam lobe and you can kind of spin the pushrods before cutting them. Then do the same for the other head. Also have 3 wrenches around usually( 2) 1/2" and a 5/16" to adjust them. If you follow the manual pay attention as there is a removal and install sequence to both the cam cover and the cam plate. When I was done upon first start it popped right off but sounded horrible for first minute or two and as oil worked its way through it got quiet as I have ever heard it be. Don't get to scared of noise unless it continues for a extended period without gradually quietly down as the lifters prime and oil circulates back through the system.
yeah I've heard that startup noise is going to send the normal person into a tizzy, I imagine I'll freak out thinking that something is breaking inside. I'll preload with oil, etc. I've watched a bunch of videos, have the service manual, bolt sequence, etc. figured out (I'll probably have the computer and you tube up at the same time as doing the work LOL). In the meantime, still gathering parts and hoping to have some ride time left before starting the job
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 10:45 AM
  #23  
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after you've got everything back together.

remove wires from spark plugs
hit the start button and hold for about 3 seconds each time for 4 or 5 times.
this will get oil back up to the top end and pump your lifters up
put plug wires back on and fire her up and you shouldn't have any noise
 
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Old Nov 19, 2014 | 04:45 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by UltraNutZ
Can't use stock pushrods as base circle of 57 cam is .020 smaller which means you need a longer pushrod.

Andrews 57 @ directcycleparts.com - $224
Compcam 850-1 lifters @ jegs - $68
Fuelmoto gasket kit - $60
Rent the puller and installer
Koyo B-168 bearings @ Georges garage - $18
SE tapered adjustable PRs @ HD online store $143
Got an email from Andrews yesterday, apparently I can use the stock pushrods, although they recommend adjustable for ease of install. So that's nice. Still deciding, figure I have time.

At this point I'm at $678 in parts and tools which would include locktite, S&S quickee rods, lifters, bearing tool, new oil filter, etc. the rod kit also comes with gaskets for the lifter caps and o rings. So if I returned the top end gasket kit that I already bought would refund $95 and I think then the only gaskets I'd be missing would be new crush gaskets for the exhaust headers and then oil (since I'll be replacing as part of the 5k service and winter storage), maybe an o ring for the oil pump?

So roughly $600 all in, or if I keep the kit and use stock pushrods I only save about $80. Guess the answer is pretty simple from a simplicity stand point so long as I get the measurement on the adjustable rods right.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2014 | 05:31 PM
  #25  
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mirrmu
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hi,

follow this cam install, easy as:

http://www.triketalk.com/forum/threa...and-up-Harley?

even top end gaskets, seals etc, can be re-used, be careful taking it apart, store them safe and clean

you wait until pull it apart and see how "new" everything still is, don't send good parts to the trash can

i dont know if you bought cams but if you can watch ebay, or classifieds here you just might pick up some cams even cheaper. especially if this winter project

thanks
mirrmu
 
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Old Nov 19, 2014 | 05:49 PM
  #26  
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gaskets are cheap.. replace them.

once you get it all apart, remember how much of a pita it was to get it that way. Now imagine doing it all over again simply because you "cheaped out" on a new gasket and it's leaking oil, leaking air, etc.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2014 | 06:09 PM
  #27  
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yep, I have all the gaskets and they are cheap so definitely will replace either way. Question still remains how much brain damage I want to give myself by going stock push rods or adjustable. At this point price difference is only around $80 so more if I want to lift gas tank, remove rocker covers, etc.

Thanks for the link that is a good one in fact it was one of the ones that I bookmarked already, can't remember how I found it originally He makes it sound so damn easy to go in from the top. Still I go back to some of the threads that I've read where someone made a cam change, had some difficulties and then had to go back in to the engine. Obviously much more difficult if I use the solids.
 

Last edited by robbyville; Nov 19, 2014 at 06:11 PM.
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Old Nov 19, 2014 | 06:19 PM
  #28  
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removing tank takes 5 minutes tops.
removing rocker covers takes 10 minutes
removing rocker support plates another 10 minutes.

just remember to work on 1 cylinder at a time with the rocker supports.

Put bike in highest gear and get your rear wheel off the ground.

Lift your pushrod tube covers so you can see the pushrods going up and down. When both rear cylinder pushrods are all the way down (on the base circle of the cam) then unbolt your rear cylinder rocker support plate.

then rotate wheel to make sure your front cylinder pushrods are at the bottom (base circle) and then remove front cylinder rocker support plate.

If you don't do this, you will likely warp your rocker support plates because they will have pressure from the cam/lifter on the valve springs.

My opinion is, if you have no absolute reason to take the top end apart, leave it alone and use quality adjustable pushrods.

Look at it this way. For a dealer to install adjustable pushrods when doing a cam swap is no charge because they are in there already. Just the cost of the pushrods themselves. If you want to use stock pushrods, then you mitigate the cost of the adjustables but now you have labor charges and gaskets to pull top end off. It balances out.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2014 | 06:45 PM
  #29  
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mirrmu
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hi,

thats a valid point UltraNutz if work done at a dealer, but for home workshop where money maybe an issue going through top can be a winner

they are taken apart and put back together all day long robbyville, its good way to learn about bike and how it goes together

they main issue is to put rocker support plates back on "level" for each cylinder otherwise you will think something not right as cant spin pushrod, 1/4 turn of each bolt in pattern outlined in manual, wait 30-60mins, onto next cylinder

thanks
mirrmu
 
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Old Nov 19, 2014 | 07:20 PM
  #30  
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All really good points, and I do want to learn. I'm checking with Andrews again about the base difference, I've seen a lot of info saying that the difference is enough to suggest adjustable rods. I've looked a fair bit and am comfortable that I've got the best prices. I expect to order everything over the next couple of weeks and if my wife doesn't "surprise" me with a new tool kit then I'll bring tools home from work
 
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