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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
What does it take to drop a 4.375 07+ Crank into my 99 TC 88 (non B) motor. I'm interested in piecing a 103 or 107 ci setup together. Either I am using the wrong search terms, or I'm asking the wrong question to the Google.
- I've read about truing and welding the 07+ setups, I'm OK with that if it works.
- I'm interested in figuring out how far I can stretch the 88 I have before the $$ curve increases. Logic says go for a 100/100 T/H 95" big bore, but the curiosity of going bigger with parts interchange always intrigues me.
I'm not looking for 7K RPM, I want more roll on grunt for my 99 Ultra.
Don't be shy, I speak engine, it's the H-D dialect I am learning to master.
What does it take to drop a 4.375 07+ Crank into my 99 TC 88 (non B) motor. I'm interested in piecing a 103 or 107 ci setup together. Either I am using the wrong search terms, or I'm asking the wrong question to the Google.
- I've read about truing and welding the 07+ setups, I'm OK with that if it works.
- I'm interested in figuring out how far I can stretch the 88 I have before the $$ curve increases. Logic says go for a 100/100 T/H 95" big bore, but the curiosity of going bigger with parts interchange always intrigues me.
I'm not looking for 7K RPM, I want more roll on grunt for my 99 Ultra.
Don't be shy, I speak engine, it's the H-D dialect I am learning to master.
Pull the lower unit and drop in the later crank. Better yet, send the lower unit off to Hoban Brothers (AKA Darkhorse) and let them install one of their worked HD 4.375" cranks with their beefed up rods. They will send the lower unit back ready to drop in the chassis with a trued, balanced, plugged and welded if you want, crank. If you have the skills to split cases and swap cranks, order the crank and DIY the project.
BTW, you can get much more than 100/100 from a well built 95"/98" motor, 115/110 numbers are very achievable.
Pull the lower unit and drop in the later crank. Better yet, send the lower unit off to Hoban Brothers (AKA Darkhorse) and let them install one of their worked HD 4.375" cranks with their beefed up rods. They will send the lower unit back ready to drop in the chassis with a trued, balanced, plugged and welded if you want, crank. If you have the skills to split cases and swap cranks, order the crank and DIY the project.
BTW, you can get much more than 100/100 from a well built 95"/98" motor, 115/110 numbers are very achievable.
OK, so it IS a drop in. Good to know. I'd like to built the motor for more torque and low end grunt, hence the 100/100 95" goal. I was not originally thinking of stroking, or boring the cases, but everybody knows about the "snowball" I'm not sure where I'll end up going, I want to keep it reliable but more fun.
I'm not afraid to crack into a motor, I haven't done a Harley case yet, but getting more familiar with them would be nice.
Here's a little vid of a motor I built a few years ago, and a blower drive I designed for it. We're planning to wastegate limit the boost to about 13-15#, but the blower is good to about 18# at it's current max input speed.
Cool video. I really think that you would be happy with a 98" combo from either Scott (Hillside), Kirby (prodrag1320), or Steve at GMR. Cam and pipe selection is key to getting max power where you want it.
Check your crankshaft runout. That may make the decision for you re: crank upgrade, although pre-03 cranks rarely have runout issues.
I'm leaning more towards just doing a 95/98" kit. Seems like I would be happy with the power/torque gains of that setup. You gotta ask the other "what ifs" though.
DJL, thank you for the answers on this thread as well as the other one. I did misunderstand your comments, and thought you were speaking only for aftermarket cranks. With regard to my ebay comments, I found a few 96" takeouts for a reasonable price.
My recipe, if it worked:
07+ crank takeout
Cut cases for 4.125" jugs
110 heads, ported.
Adapt intake for 99 efi setup
Tbd cam and supporting valvetrain.
Likely plan
Bore jugs to 3.937, buy matching pistons
Port/have heads ported
TBD cam and supporting components.
Save $$ for other dice and decal mods, like new radio, Tour Pack quick release, 18" front wheel etc...
I'm leaning more towards just doing a 95/98" kit. Seems like I would be happy with the power/torque gains of that setup. You gotta ask the other "what ifs" though.
DJL, thank you for the answers on this thread as well as the other one. I did misunderstand your comments, and thought you were speaking only for aftermarket cranks. With regard to my ebay comments, I found a few 96" takeouts for a reasonable price.
My recipe, if it worked:
07+ crank takeout
Cut cases for 4.125" jugs
110 heads, ported.
Adapt intake for 99 efi setup
Tbd cam and supporting valvetrain.
Likely plan
Bore jugs to 3.937, buy matching pistons
Port/have heads ported
TBD cam and supporting components.
Save $$ for other dice and decal mods, like new radio, Tour Pack quick release, 18" front wheel etc...
Your likely plan can make those 115/110 numbers with the right heads and cams. Don't try to port your heads, no need to re-invent the wheel. Talk to our forum sponsors VeeTwin Performance (Kirby) and Hillside (Scott) about head work and what cam combinations they have seen put up good numbers and replicate. You will need fuel management and a good tune if bike is EFI. If carbed, some jets, needle shims and dyno time are in order.
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