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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Without going into too much detail, I wasn't happy with the tune. The first was ok, but it pinged in 5th and 6th, in low RPM's and a heavy roll on the throttle. I had him adjust it again, and it made it much, much worse. I finally ended up leaving it with him so he could completely re-map it.
I picked it up yesterday, and I am extremely pleased with the outcome. It runs so damn good now. So smooth. Which brings me to my next question; Is it really worth it to switch exhaust now? I mean, $1,100 for possibly gaining a few extra ponies and lbs. of torque. Do you guys think it's worth doing or not? I'm leaning towards no. Here is the new dyno sheet. Notice the numbers went down slightly, but the humidity was double what it was the first time. The AFR is now closer to what I've always considered nominal. 13.5/1.... what are the realistic gains I would see, with a really good 2-1?
Without going into too much detail, I wasn't happy with the tune. The first was ok, but it pinged in 5th and 6th, in low RPM's and a heavy roll on the throttle. I had him adjust it again, and it made it much, much worse. I finally ended up leaving it with him so he could completely re-map it.
I picked it up yesterday, and I am extremely pleased with the outcome. It runs so damn good now. So smooth. Which brings me to my next question; Is it really worth it to switch exhaust now? I mean, $1,100 for possibly gaining a few extra ponies and lbs. of torque. Do you guys think it's worth doing or not? I'm leaning towards no. Here is the new dyno sheet. Notice the numbers went down slightly, but the humidity was double what it was the first time. The AFR is now closer to what I've always considered nominal. 13.5/1.... what are the realistic gains I would see, with a really good 2-1? Attachment 508539
With a good pipe, you might gain a few hp and lb/ft, plus you might smooth out that dip in the torque curve between 2000 and 3000 rpm, which would be a nice plus. Another 8-10 lb/ft at 2500 rpm and 6-8 lb/ft at 2750 would really do wonders for your rideability, especially around town.
If it runs good & feels good why bother, looks like you have some nice gains from the cam. Plus the the sound that the DNT's make. I say keep the pipes you have
100TQ at 2750 and doesn't drop below until 4750 and holding close to 110 in between with good rideability? What's not to like? You don't feel that little dip and I doubt that you will see gains worth $1100 but that's your call. Easy to spend someone else's money but I would leave it alone. JMHO.
For me it's was between the 222, the 48 and the tt100. I ended up going with the 48. The 48. Is a good drop in cam, lots of low end tourque but if I was to do it all over I'd go with the 222. They have a little more hp and torque from what I've seen.
But the tt100 look just as good.
I ran it with my buddies bike tonight. He has an '04 with a ton of work to his engine, and he couldn't keep up. His is a 96" but, has high compression pistons and woods cams (I believe tw-6) he's also 100 lbs lighter than me. I believe his work is more extensive, as his jugs were sent to Zippers for machine work. My other buddy has a Victory, with a 106, and he wasn't even in the picture. So, needless to say, I'm very pleased.
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