Here is what I did, I want the bike to pull like crazy down low and have power all the way through 5000 RPM's and I got what I wanted with just a cam change. I will say due to the year of your bike you would need to change the valve springs in order to use this cam, My 05 was the first year they went with beehive springs. After doing a lot of research and phone calls I went with the Andrews 48 cams in my fat boy. I have had a smile on my face ever since. Bike pulls great and sounds great. I have never had it on a Dyno I am running with the map I got from Fuel Moto for my set up.

 

I was looking at the Andrews 37


The 37 looks comparable to the 509 and 510

It shares a lot of the numbers with the 509 and 510, but might split the difference between them?

Stock, 37, and 48

I'll think about the 48. I don't know if I want to mess with swapping the springs. But I might. Otherwise I'll probably go with the 37

 

Take a look at the Chris Rivas 514 or 554 cam simular in specs to what you are looking at without changing springs

 

The 37 will be soft on the bottom in a TC88; late intake close. The number in my previous are peak numbers and don't reflect partial throttle response; the OP will regret installing the 37. The Andrews 26 or the S&S 509 are the two best choices for the OPs application.

The Rivas 514 will probably work with the OEM springs but should be checked for coil bind but it will be soft on the bottom as well with a 36* intake close. The OEM springs will not accommodate the .554" lift.

The 48 is not a bad option with the 25* intake close but springs would have to be changed to the '05 up beehives. JMHO but the 509 would be the best choice for low end to mid range power.

 

I'm gonna go a bit against the grain here, as I tend to do but.......

IMO find a cam with a torque curve you like, look at REAL dyno charts not illustrations for sales purposes. HTT is a good source for those as well as the dyno section here, pay attention to the pipes, intakes, throttle bodies and carbs and compression ratios used, as these make a big difference in the results. PAY CLOSE ATTENTION to the torque curve, in most cases the faster it rises on the left the sooner it will drop to the right, I find that I prefer a nice flat torque curve, it makes a nice wide power band. Develop a build plan based on what you want, makes no sense to throw money at cams only now if they are not going to COMPLETELY meet your goal. Save that money and put it toward your build plan, make proper tuning part of your plan so you will get every ounce of power you paid for. Once the engine is dialed in then adjust your gearing to put the sweet spot in your torque curve in the cruse range you use. There is a lot of good information on gearing if you wade through everything else in sticky topics in the dyna and softail sections.

I will share my personal experience: I have 2 bikes a 2011 softail and a 2017 cvo street glide. the softail has been bored to 107 and has ported cvo heads, has a high lift cam all purpose built around MY cam choice (too much crap to list), the street glide has the stock 114 with a torque cam, exhaust and intake/throttle body installed. I adjusted the gearing on the softail in the primary as well as changing the trans sprocket, this bike cruises at a higher rpm but is right in the sweet spot because i can nail the throttle at cruise and it takes right off and winds out the the rev limiter. the street glide on the other hand make great torque at lower rpms and will cruise right along at much lower rpm and take off when I want it but by 4700 its all done.

To sum up my point get your engine the way you want it then adjust your gearing IF you need to, you will see this over and over here " there are no magic parts that satisfy everybody"

 

Damn. Genius at its finest.

 

What about the SE 203, 204, or 211? The 95" upgrade isn't as expensive as I thought it was, so I'll probably get that done in the next couple of years, but I can live with a dog down low for a while if it'll fit better with what I plan to eventually do with it. In the meantime I'm sure I could do thinner head gaskets or something if I'm really unhappy with it.

 

A couple years ago, I took djl's advice and went with the 509G on my 88". I didn't, and still don't, care about top end power. I'm just a cruiser. I doubt my bike has seen the other side of 4000rpm more than a few times.

The ONLY reason I changed cams, was because I was in there doing lifters, chain shoes, adjusto pushrods and was doing a top end rebuild. And once into it, rather than going with a new set of cam chain shoes, I went for gear drive cams after measuring the crank run-out and finding it to be .0015". So, job is done, no more worry and cam chain shoe inspections. Plus, it had a noticeable boost in low end grunt along with a faint whine from the gears. But after 18,000 miles, it can barely be heard. The best part......48mpg. I can go well over 200 miles on a tank of fuel.
Haven't had it dynoed. I don't care and no one else does either. It's just a number.

I think a person really needs to be honest with themselves about what they ultimately want. Do your research, pay your money and try to be satisfied with your choices

 

If increasing displacement to 95", go to 98"; same cost. At 98", more cam options, like the 37 and a couple of others like the SE204; very underrated cam IMHO. Also, if going to 98" doing some minor head work and changing the valve springs to accommodate up to .600" lift cams opens the door to many more cam options with .550"-.570" lift and setting chamber volume to hit the compression sweet spot for the selected cam.

 

I found a NOS 204 "kit" on ebay and ordered it. The pictures show just the cams so I don't know what all was supposed to come with the kit, I'll likely have to order bearings etc separate.