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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
I recently purchased a 2009 crossbones 15k miles (cheap) that had been sitting and was mostly running on 1 cylinder when I bought it. Intermitently it would run on both. I figured fresh fuel and plugs and ride it out as I have with other bikes would clear it out and run fine. Wrong. When I got the bike home it was blowing gas out of the tank console gasket. So pulled it off, and had 1 fuel line leaking blowing towards tank console gasket (which was worn). So I put hose clamp, stopped the leak. Previous owner had replaced fuel pump, I believe a cheap one with cheap fuel lines. Well put it back together (fresh fuel etc) - it ran the same. SO pulled apart again. Put new console gasket, new fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter. Also Checked the lines and fuel pump sock looked ok (although I did not know it is designed to absorb moisture (i learned recently and have not had time to try replacing)). After the replacements I just mentioned (not new sock yet) it ran even worse. Will fire up easy run for a coupkle sconds (sounds like both cylinders) and die. Won't take any throttle whatsover and won't idle. I had also already tried spraying MAF sensor with carb cleaner and I put a new coil.
So I am lost. I have not done anything new. I did order a fuel pump sock, a fuel rail service kit, and check valve. Dunno where to go from here. Another note, the fuel filter had come apart some and there was a small amount of debris in the fuel pressure regulator housing. Although now I believe all is clean. Also, fuel pump seems to have plenty of pressure although I do not know. Last note, of course this bike had been sitting some time before all of this. Thanks for your help
Just bought a 2009 Crossbones myself last month. Fortunately, it runs but I have to replace the compensator. I would start with the basics, Fuel, Air, Fire. Fuel, God only knows what gas was in it and how long it sat there. If it's been sitting a long time your injectors could be bad/clogged and you already identified a possible fuel pump/fuel line issue. Air, no issues I can think of except check your throttle body to make sure there's no obstructions (especially to the rear cylinder) and your butterfly valve to make sure it's rotating like it's supposed to. Fire, you replaced the plugs but did you make sure there was still a spark? Coil or plug wire issues? I won't claim to be an expert on bike engines but have some experience with autos and I bought all three manuals first thing for the bones so I can look stuff up if you need it or copy pages for you. I would start with those questions and see what you find. Beautiful bike and the bones was my dream bike for years before I found this one. Hope you get it running.
Given the amount of crap that you found in the FPR, I would pull the injectors and make sure that they are not plugged up, and the crap isnt in the fuel rails. There is a coarse filter at the inlet for the injector, and that is likely full of anything that made it past the regulator. Past that, go back to basics, fuel, air, spark. Pull the plugs and maybe run a redneck compression test (thumb over hole, make sure it has SOME pressure) and arent dealing with a two pronged problem. there is a reason it was parked, just need to find and correct that issue and you should be good to go
I had also already tried spraying MAF sensor with carb cleaner and I put a new coil.
If you in fact used Carb Cleaner and not electrical MAF cleaner, you may have damaged the MAF. May want to try some electrical MAF cleaner to get the carb cleaner residue off the MAF.
Also instead of just replacing parts, have you checked for trouble codes?
what do you mean that I won't receive any more notifications? also, what were the symtoms of you compensator being bad? Thank you
Not sure what you mean by no more notifications. I don't remember anything about notifications. For the compensator, initial cold start is always good but as soon as it warms up to operating temp the starts become extremely hard. It will turn over and over until it finally catches. Also, if you're in slow traffic (5-15 mph) I can feel and hear a clunking coming from the front of the primary. From what I understand the early 96 engines still had the same comp as the 88 and the springs in it weren't strong enough for the newer engines power and had a tendency to fail. The new compensators to fix this didn't become standard until after our model year. Mine's got 12K on the odometer. Some go longer, some shorter but from what I researched on here most failed early. The updated SE comp is the book fix but I went with the Darkhorse Man O-War sprocket from Pro Twin. It gives me the 32 sprocket for more useable gears (not a highway touring bike) and does away with the springs altogether by using special rubber plugs as the wear item which I can replace for 40 bucks when they go bad.
. From what I understand the early 96 engines still had the same comp as the 88 and the springs in it weren't strong enough for the newer engines power and had a tendency to fail.
True that the 96" compensator is the same as that for the 88" but it is more than adequate for the "newer engines power". My '02 FLHT all bore 107" (124TQ/110HP) and my '05 FXSTD 98" (115TQ/115HP) both run early comps with no issue. You just had a bad compensator or it was not torqued to the necessary clamping pressure which was fairly common with earlier years. The fix was to shave .030"-.060" off he comp nut and retorque.
The problem with the later compensators was that they were just a POS as originally designed.
True that the 96" compensator is the same as that for the 88" but it is more than adequate for the "newer engines power". My '02 FLHT all bore 107" (124TQ/110HP) and my '05 FXSTD 98" (115TQ/115HP) both run early comps with no issue. You just had a bad compensator or it was not torqued to the necessary clamping pressure which was fairly common with earlier years. The fix was to shave .030"-.060" off he comp nut and retorque.
The problem with the later compensators was that they were just a POS as originally designed.
Thanks for the clarification. Seems like most of the posts that came up in my search referenced the weak springs so I just assumed they were the issue. That's what I get for assuming. Either way mines bad so I get the fun of replacing it, thankfully I like to tinker. Hope he figures out what's wrong with his. It's too nice of a bike to be sitting.
Thanks for the clarification. Seems like most of the posts that came up in my search referenced the weak springs so I just assumed they were the issue. That's what I get for assuming. Either way mines bad so I get the fun of replacing it, thankfully I like to tinker. Hope he figures out what's wrong with his. It's too nice of a bike to be sitting.
No worries. The OP will get there but he has to roll up his sleeves and start from a known baseline which will require basic trouble shooting procedure for a bike that has been sitting unattended for a long time. Fuel lines, clean tank, clean injectors, compression check, etc.; gotta have fire and fuel to make these things run.:icon-wink:
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