Engine Mechanical Topics Discussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.

Engine Growth....

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Old Jan 24, 2022 | 02:10 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by TriGeezer
Design engineers have the tools necessary to do all kinds of modeling and analysis. In today’s modern engines, these are not calculations that you can make on a napkin with a calculator. Finite element analysis is one of the methods that models 1,000s of points and variables and is run on super computers. Then they run test engines under all types of conditions while monitoring and analyzing all the data points that we modeled.

So you're into mechanical computer modeling? There is a lot of first order, napkin stuff that can be done.. Do you think that the HD engineers actually computer modeled stresses in the cylinder? If so, I wonder why builders have to replace cylinder head nuts on the M8s. Kinda sounds like they got the stress analysis on cylinder expansion wrong..

FWIW IMO when HD did the M8s, they might have subcontracted most of the work. The only engineers they keep around are manufacturing.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2022 | 02:12 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
Yes, because the Pistons had to be milled and the combustion Chambers needed to be opened up with the valve seats moved deeper into the head to get the necessary clearance of valve to piston with the 9b cam. Not exactly sure which valve or valves hit.. There was no evidence when I tore it down..
When I did a test hit (motor warmed up) I was taken by surprise how quickly the motor revved in first gear then came the clacking of the valve train.. I heard a definite metallic tap and then the clacking. I pulled over and shut it off.. I was a little ways from the shop, so I started it back up and by the time I got back to the shop the clacking decreased dramatically.. If I can remember at that point I went with the Fueling short travel race lifters.. I believe I was told that the total piston travel was .123" and to set preload to .68".. Ran those for a while but never really could get them to quiet down.. I switched back to the S&S and no issues but I never did take the motor up beyond 6K after that..



Cylinder growth but the funny thing is cast iron sleeves and aluminum expand at different rates.. So how would one calculate that.. Aluminum has twice the expansion rate of iron..
Sounds more like you had a lifter stick then a valve tap a piston.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2022 | 02:18 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Sounds more like you had a lifter stick then a valve tap a piston.
I'm not sure but I do remember hearing this funny sound like a piece of aluminum snapping or something and that's when all the clacking started... But was at high RPM..
 
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Old Jan 24, 2022 | 04:31 PM
  #24  
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you set the adjustable off the lifter cup at base circle fully depressed until the valve is off seat, then you loosen it till the p/r spins freely just like the old hd solids. now to quite the train, you would go another 6 flats. that said, not much travel in the lifter body. mine is set at 3 flats. the more you shorten the p/r the more lifter travel.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2022 | 04:47 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by bustert
you set the adjustable off the lifter cup at base circle fully depressed until the valve is off seat, then you loosen it till the p/r spins freely just like the old hd solids. now to quite the train, you would go another 6 flats. that said, not much travel in the lifter body. mine is set at 3 flats. the more you shorten the p/r the more lifter travel.
I just want to make sure I understand you in that of the hundred thousands left after the limiter is installed your lifter preload is actually running somewhere around .084". Leaving .016" cushion between the limiter and the plunger..

I do understand about extending the push rod to lift the valve off its seat therefore not being able to spin the pushrod until you loosen it up just to the point where you can spend the pushrod and that would be your zero lash. At that point you're saying you short in the push rods three flats and that's it?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2022 | 08:02 AM
  #26  
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https://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/pushrod-adjustment

this explains it pretty well.
since i run this thing to red line 7.5k, i run near solid.
all that said, not all hydraulic cams perform well being run as solids.
the andrews n4 works pretty well with the 4>5* retard, pushes the power band upward about 500 rpm, really does not start to pull till around 4k. i need all of the power on the upper end to pull the international gearing with the sportgear from johnson engineering. a real hoot!!!
 
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Old Jan 25, 2022 | 08:31 AM
  #27  
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Yeah totally familiar with the link, thanks.. Question on that, what is your valve to piston clearance with the 4-5* retard? I'm assuming you are somewhere around .080".... I would call that insurance... Lol..
So with the gearing in your Sporty the primary is a 34/57 as in the 883's were? What's in the rear a 68? If it's anything like in the chart below I couldn't imagine.. I'll bet it kinda makes the joints in your elbows sore... Lol


 
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Old Jan 25, 2022 | 09:03 AM
  #28  
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secondary is 29/55, it is international for autobahn driving. the sportgear increases the reduction in the tranny 1>4 and the 5th gives a 500 rpm drop.
1st goes to 60, 2nd goes to 90, third goes to 120 and 4 & 5, no clock left. surprises a lot of rice. i will tell you this, the xl frame isn't designed for much above 120. i wish i had a friction control like the ole irons had.
even with the 55, it still out performs the stock 1200, sport gear alone. the reason why i had to shift the power band is to pull the upper rpm, biggest cork is the carb.
what is nice, i can still ride 5th at 45>50 with steady throttle, all on 87 fuel thanks to lower dynamic compression ratio.
i cannot remember the numbers you are asking for since this is an 01, but the retard will not alter the stock numbers by much.
mpg's range near 60 to very low 30's, depends largely upon smile factor.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2022 | 07:43 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
So I guess the big question is do I install the limiters in each lifter and then as per S&S bottom out the lifter and back off one full turn and leave it there. Then just enjoy what I have..
yes
 
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