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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
here are routing pics. If your line was broke you may not have seen it properly routed. This is a touring bike and yours is a dyna but I dont think i would anchor the flexible line to the metal given my druthers.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Mar 19, 2025 at 03:02 PM.
@Ed Ramberger OEM regulator says 4.0b and replacement regualtor rating is 400KPa. I just need to find the regualtor oring; don't know if metric or imperial. I picked up a pack of metric orings in Autozone and one of them is pretty close 8mm IDx12mmODx2mmW vs OEM 8.45mmIDx11.4IDx1.65mmW; measurements on the OEM could be off hundredths of a millimeter; hard to tell if compressed or stretched a hair when measuring ID and OD. I will have to wait another week for an OEM replacement. I know; wait! I should have caught that missing oring.
@Ed Ramberger OEM regulator says 4.0b and replacement regualtor rating is 400KPa. I just need to find the regualtor oring; don't know if metric or imperial. I picked up a pack of metric orings in Autozone and one of them is pretty close 8mm IDx12mmODx2mmW vs OEM 8.45mmIDx11.4IDx1.65mmW; measurements on the OEM could be off hundredths of a millimeter; hard to tell if compressed or stretched a hair when measuring ID and OD. I will have to wait another week for an OEM replacement. I know; wait! I should have caught that missing oring.
@djl Yes. - OEM Delphi is 4 bar. 4 bar and 400kPa are the same. My point was that the replacement should be the same and even if it is, it could be a psi or three off compared to the other. If the bike has been tuned, it will affect fuel flow if there is any variance. Just an FYI
Few weeks before I blew my 07 EGC up, I changed the fuel filter. Here it pic. One thing that is good to do is to look at how the pump to filter hose is routed. If it's close to anything even semi sharp, I take the old hose, chop of the small ends an split it down the middle. I then slip it over the new line and zip tie it gently.. (not my idea) Only pic I took just to make sure after the new filter and hose, the thing went back together the same.
@Ed Ramberger Ed, softail not a dyna; addtionally, the new line is longer than the OEM line. Take a look at the attached photo and you will see why I attached that line to the metal bracket connecting the pump leg to the filter/regulator assebly. In your photos, thanks BTW, first and third do not have that bracket and middle photo bracket is located in a different location on the filter/regulator assembly which doesn't interfere with the line routing.
I have zip tied the wiring to the bracket using it to insulate the line from the bracket. I have been playing with it today after you note and while I don't think loosely attaching the line the way I did will be an issue, I think I can tweak things a bit, remove the zip tie while still using the wiring as a buffer between the line and the bracket.
Few weeks before I blew my 07 EGC up, I changed the fuel filter. Here it pic. One thing that is good to do is to look at how the pump to filter hose is routed. If it's close to anything even semi sharp, I take the old hose, chop of the small ends an split it down the middle. I then slip it over the new line and zip tie it gently.. (not my idea) Only pic I took just to make sure after the new filter and hose, the thing went back together the same.
I like it Max. I think I will follow suit and protect that section that crosses over the bracket.
@Ed Ramberger Ed, softail not a dyna; addtionally, the new line is longer than the OEM line. Take a look at the attached photo and you will see why I attached that line to the metal bracket connecting the pump leg to the filter/regulator assebly. In your photos, thanks BTW, first and third do not have that bracket and middle photo bracket is located in a different location on the filter/regulator assembly which doesn't interfere with the line routing.
I have zip tied the wiring to the bracket using it to insulate the line from the bracket. I have been playing with it today after you note and while I don't think loosely attaching the line the way I did will be an issue, I think I can tweak things a bit, remove the zip tie while still using the wiring as a buffer between the line and the bracket.
@djl Sorry - was thinking Softail, was also helping buddy on a Dyna simultaneously. You can also insulate the metal with a split piece of fuel line zip tied or do something like Max said if that wold have been an issue. The line will flex and move when pressurized from rest so wherever you end up just make sure you won't have a rub through. Also use quality metal tongue zip ties. HD does source very good zip ties. The brand is usually on them. Personally I would try to keep the white zip tie and the fuel line from touching.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Mar 19, 2025 at 07:42 PM.
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