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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
I tried that on my `19 Electra Glide Standard, tried several o rings in fact, but it still leaked (they were not OEM o rings, they were 013 Viton o rings from McMaster Carr).
Update #3
The lower o-ring in the Fuel Tool was missing. I had a couple on hand and replaced it and the stopped the leak. Ignition on, run (pump priming), gauge needle did not move, not even a flicker. I am now reading Section 9.14 of my service manual. I have been searching for a YouTube video and found a couple but they leave a lot to be desired so if anyone can refer me to a good video; appreciated. What I have noted but am not clear on is the movement of the fuel pump bracket to sort of straighten out the assembly to facilitate removal from the tank. I fired up on starter fluid; ran great for about 5 seconds but since runnng on starter fluid I guess that has nothing to do whatever is going on in the tank. I am guessing I should not be concerned about which component has failed and replace fuel pump; filter; top plate gasket; regulator, and all the connecting lines/clamps, including tank check valve/hose.
Questions:
If the fuel pump primes does that mean the fuel pump is serviceable?
Is it possible to have zero fuel pressure?
I do not plan to remove the tank. I plan to drain via siphon but expect I will not get it all and when I remove the quick disconnect from the tank, whatever fuel is left is coming out, so if anyone has a suggestion on best way to minimize what is left or manage the mess, let me know.
Apologies for all the questions but new territory for me and I hate do overs. I did pull the guts out of the tank on my '02 FLHT to adjust float level but did not have to replace any parts. Depending on you guys to keep me between the ditches.
I think your on the right track by just replacing the parts with new. If it's not the check valve I'd guess it probably the regulator. Or a leak inside the tank.
Good luck
Questions:
If the fuel pump primes does that mean the fuel pump is serviceable?
Is it possible to have zero fuel pressure?
I do not plan to remove the tank. I plan to drain via siphon but expect I will not get it all and when I remove the quick disconnect from the tank, whatever fuel is left is coming out, so if anyone has a suggestion on best way to minimize what is left or manage the mess, let me know.
Apologies for all the questions but new territory for me and I hate do overs. I did pull the guts out of the tank on my '02 FLHT to adjust float level but did not have to replace any parts. Depending on you guys to keep me between the ditches.
BTW, FYI, no call back from Fuel Tool.
Yeah pilling the pump is a PITA. About all I can say is that you need to push down on the pump to the point where the arm straightens out..
If the fuel pump runs, it means the pump motor is good. Says nothing about the rest of the pump.
Absolutely possible to have 0 pressure. Means something broke and not a pin hole..
You can get most of the fuel out and pull the guts while the tank is mounted.. Don't work on the tank while smoking a cigarette..
Pulling the pump is very simple. there's a tab on the sliding bracket on tunnel of the tank. You push down on the rear tab and slide the complete assembly forward. The only fuel line you need to remove is the one toward the rear that goes to the quick coupler fuel line to the injectors. You do need to twist and turn and the tip to the right and then move the entire assembly toward the rear of the tank.. It can be a pita so just take your time.. I would remove the rear fuel line before removing the assembly from the mount.. When I disconnected the fuel line I compressed the 2 clip but then had to put a #1 flat blade screw driver in the small gap between the fuel line and the pump housing and with a slight twist the fuel line did sperate from the housing as shown in the pics below.. At this point I would replace the pump and regulator.. I would also replace the filter and the sock down on the bottom I just got a kit from Amazon should be here Friday. Only 20 bucks.. hope this helps..
Don't mind the fuel line I have connected to the pressure side outlet of the pump I only use that as a demonstration, Also the third picture I'm pointing to the regulator..
@buell95 I will be ordering everything; not that expensive and makes sense considering the level of difficulty; at least for me. @Max Headflow I don't smoke; quit when discharged in 1972. @98hotrodfatboy Thanks for the detail, the link and the pics. I can't really see the release tab but I know where to look. What clamp is used to connect the line from the quick disconnect to the fuel pump? What connector do you plan to use to connect the new line? Most OEM clamps are Oetiker and I plan to use PN 10222 which looks like an Oetiker clamp in the parts manual.
I will order parts today but can't get to pulling the guts until Saturday. Please stand by for updates and/or more questions; when I am wroking on a bike, if something can go wrong, it wil. I would rather get a root canal than DIY this little project. I have watched a couple of videos posted by wingnuts that show the process; painful to watch but helps knowing what not to do.
BTW and FYI, Mike, with Fuel Tool called me back this morning. He was surprised that the lower oring was missing; apparently they don't test that fitting. He asked me what oring I used which was the Fuel Tool oring as I had purchased a pack when I replacet the lower oring in the tank check valve. He was happy to hear that because the orings Fuel Tool uses are propietary and made for Fuel Tool with more viton that standard orings. Anyway, he was happy to get the feedback, thanked me for the business and offered to send me a pack of orings as well as a new tank quick disonnect fitting and line. Good customer service/relations.
@djl
I should've researched a little better.. your setup is different than mine. Yes you will need the oetiker clamps. Newer version are a lot different. Mine are quick disconnects.. Sorry if I steared you in the wrong direction..
@djl
I should've researched a little better.. your setup is different than mine. Yes you will need the oetiker clamps. Newer version are a lot different. Mine are quick disconnects.. Sorry if I steared you in the wrong direction..
@98hotrodfatboy No worries. It might be easier to cut the hose rather than try to remove the Oetiker clamp. I noted from the picture in your previous that the connector appeared to be quick disconnect much better than Oetiker. Is that from your '10 Dyna?
Yeah, I have a drawer full of them and the clamping tool. Many different sizes, not sure if I have the required size but I bet I do Anyway, the kit coming includes two. Parts won't be here for another week or so but I am going to drain the tank and pull the guts this weekend.
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