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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Yeah, I have a drawer full of them and the clamping tool. Many different sizes, not sure if I have the required size but I bet I do Anyway, the kit coming includes two. Parts won't be here for another week or so but I am going to drain the tank and pull the guts this weekend.
The clamp will be marked 11.3 and be about 0.207" wide.
IITC the filter hose needs 2 clamps and you'll need one more for the hose that goes to the connector.
Last edited by Max Headflow; Mar 6, 2025 at 08:43 PM.
Got the fuel delivery system out this afternoon; took about 30 minutes to unplug/remove dash, top plate and the pump/filter assembly. Attached a picture of the filter sock that has deteriorated and perhaps some of that flotsam has plugged up the filter? I cut the supply line from the tank valve to the filte since I am replacing it. After I got the pump/filter assembly out, I reached down into the tank to pull the supply line up and it was not connected to the tank valve. I suppose I could have pulled it off by pulling the pump assembly too high but I would have though the connection to the tank valve was stronger than that. It took me longer to remove the Oetiker clamp at the fuel filter/supply line connection than removing the pump/filter assembly.
Unfortunately, the tank was near full as I was planning a ride. I was able to siphon a lot of fuel from the tank but looks like there is more than a gallon remaining. I need some suggestions how to remove the rest of the fuel before removing the tank valve. I am using a 1/2" clear hose but it wants to curl up and will not stay where I place it. I get the end of the hose as close to the tank valve as I can but it's not going to work. I know I can't drain it dry but I need to get as much out as possible; I do not want to R/R the tank.
Well the best thing I ever used back in the day was 5/8" garden hose and get a mouth full.. Other than that, you're going to have to remove the tank. In all honesty to get all the old fuel sock out I think you're going to have to remove it anyways.. I've always found that when completely removing the tank the job goes a hell of a lot easier.. Less frustration..
Well the best thing I ever used back in the day was 5/8" garden hose and get a mouth full.. Other than that, you're going to have to remove the tank. In all honesty to get all the old fuel sock out I think you're going to have to remove it anyways.. I've always found that when completely removing the tank the job goes a hell of a lot easier.. Less frustration..
Understood and don't disagree; just trying to avoid another step. I don't see any sock flotsam floating around in the remaining fuel; it is very clear. I was planning on reusing the top plate fasteners with the plastic sealing washers; did you replace those or reuse? Do you know the thread size of the quick disconnect tank valve?
I'm not sure what the threat size on that quick disconnect is sorry. And yes I did reuse my gasket top plate and screws without issues and I just filled my tank up like I always do to the max and no leakage no smell no nothing.. All good there.. The only thing I say about removal is because I struggle in the past so many times thinking I'm taking shortcuts and whatnot but they're really not because the aggravation level kicks your *** this way you can just turn the thing upside down blow it out and you're good to go.. I must be getting older... Lol..
The only thing I say about removal is because I struggle in the past so many times thinking I'm taking shortcuts and whatnot but they're really not because the aggravation level kicks your *** this way you can just turn the thing upside down blow it out and you're good to go.. I must be getting older... Lol..
You sure aren't alone in that thinking.
Yea I'm getting older too
OP Glad you your finding stuff to point a finger at to solve things
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