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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
@buell95 Hey, thanks for the Fuel Pump Factory info. I did order and install the kit for the Deuce, '01-'07. The regulator in the kit looks similar to the OEM regulator as well as the regulator shown as part of the kit but it was a bitch to press into the housing; it fit but I zdidn't expect it to be so hard. Did you experince the same thing? I get **** when I receive a part that doesn't look like OEM or like the part shown by the vendor.
@buell95 Hey, thanks for the Fuel Pump Factory info. I did order and install the kit for the Deuce, '01-'07. The regulator in the kit looks similar to the OEM regulator as well as the regulator shown as part of the kit but it was a bitch to press into the housing; it fit but I zdidn't expect it to be so hard. Did you experince the same thing? I get **** when I receive a part that doesn't look like OEM or like the part shown by the vendor.
It's been awhile but i rember they do fit snug.
did the o-rtng look good not pinched or anything?
I rebuilt my 06 ultra with the kit from fuelpump factory, And my 06 streetglide with a kit from Quantrum, Both kits were about the same and haven't had any issues yet.
That's the one.. Unfortunately you got to by 25.. I'd just replaced the filer in my 07 EGC and used one..
I know, I have a drawer full of clamps and shims that I will likely never use. The nail customers on the shipping; no way should it cost $10 to ship that pack of clamps.
I know, I have a drawer full of clamps and shims that I will likely never use. The nail customers on the shipping; no way should it cost $10 to ship that pack of clamps.
You are definitely paying a little for handing.. Toss a few more items in and it won't increase the price if small and from the same warehouse. I can get stuff from them the same day if I order before 10..
Guys, I have built and rebuilt motors and transmissions, dealt with most drive train issues possible over the past 20 years; IAW when something breaks, I can fix it. However, the one thing I have never had to deal with is a "check engine" light and I need some help. Bike is an '05 Deuce, built 98" motor with less than 2500 miles on the build. The bike has been sitting in the garage for months because for a variety of reasons, I have not been able to ride; not for any distance anyway. Lithium battery, on tender and I start it up every couple of weeks to get it up to operating temps and shut her down. On occassion, depending on my shoulder, I will take her for a spin through the neighborhood; never had any indication of any issue.
I started her up today, fired right up and I was letting the motor idle watching the oil tank fill opening waiting to see the oil from the sump start pumping up and into the tank. Idled for about five minutes and shut down, no sputter, rough idle, no warning, just stopped like I had flipped the switch. Motor spins good with compression releases open but not a hint that she wants to fire up; check engine light is on. It was late in the day, so I have not started to trouble shoot but I am guessing I need to check for codes and I don't have any idea how to do that; nevrer had to do it. Yes, I have the service manual.
I don't believe the battery is the problem; the motor spins over freely, no spinning, sputtering like it's trying to start; motor just spins so my initial thought was fuel delivery. I probably won't get around to start chasing the problem until Saturday so any suggestions to assist would be appreciated.
EDIT: Got the code P55Pb. Doing a quick search, it appears that it may be faulty fuel injectors or a problem with a problem with the fuel pressure regulator. The P55PTB code is a generic code that indicates a problem with the motorcycle’s fuel injection system.
OK, now I guess I need to get my hands on a fuel pressure tester and learn how to use it. Any preference on this tool, i.e. brand, where to buy, etc.? Where's Max when I need him.
@djl I just saw this and did not read the entire thread. I immediately knew where you were at. You were not reading codes, you were at the first step of Speedo Diagnostics. By turning the key on with the ODO Reset button in, you go into DIAG Mode. It then displays ""P55Ptb". Fives = the letter S. You then needed to hit the odo button again to select and read/clear codes in each module. Each time you hit the button it will cycle to a new module and blink then you hold the button down to read codes. P= Powertrain (ECM) S=Security (TSM/TSSM) SP= Speedo t=Tach b=Body (ABS)
I will also post pages from a 2008 touring diagnostics manual to give you instructions.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Mar 14, 2025 at 09:01 PM.
@Ed Ramberger Thanks for the infor Ed; I guess I should have got out the service manual and dug a little deeper. Anyway, I don't know if a code was thrown for the problem but since you did not read the whole thread, which went on longer than it should have (my fault). I immediately suspected a fuel issue as I had good clean spark but the "code" was throwing me off. Several told me that the "code" was not a code and we danced around that for a few posts. I ordered a fuel pressure tester and the gauge registered zero fuel pressure which I thought was unusual since even a faulty pump or clogged filter should register some pressure. Anyway, I pulled the guts from the tank and found that the exit line from the pump had separated an inch or two from the tank valve which seems very unusual to me. Have you ever seen that happen? Ordered parts, pump, fiter, regulator, lines and waiting for the new exit line to arrive to put everything back together. I will follow your instructions to see if a code was thrown and, if so, clear it.
@Ed Ramberger Thanks for the infor Ed; I guess I should have got out the service manual and dug a little deeper. Anyway, I don't know if a code was thrown for the problem but since you did not read the whole thread, which went on longer than it should have (my fault). I immediately suspected a fuel issue as I had good clean spark but the "code" was throwing me off. Several told me that the "code" was not a code and we danced around that for a few posts. I ordered a fuel pressure tester and the gauge registered zero fuel pressure which I thought was unusual since even a faulty pump or clogged filter should register some pressure. Anyway, I pulled the guts from the tank and found that the exit line from the pump had separated an inch or two from the tank valve which seems very unusual to me. Have you ever seen that happen? Ordered parts, pump, fiter, regulator, lines and waiting for the new exit line to arrive to put everything back together. I will follow your instructions to see if a code was thrown and, if so, clear it.
Those lines do age and break sometimes. Your pictured line will be very hard and inflexible compared to a new one. The lines do flex when pressurized. I quickly saw some stuff about buying parts at FPF. Just be aware that there are a bunch of posts about failed "new" parts from them - pumps and lines. If you have any diagnostic questions, messaging me will get my attention quicker. I am not in the forums too much lately. Always glad to help you out.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Mar 14, 2025 at 11:30 PM.
OK fellas, exit line finally delivered so I installed the pump assembly, with all new parts, this morning into a dry clean tank, added about 2 gallons of fuel and checked pressure. Ignition on, run on, needle floated up to about 20psi and dropped back to zero, to in spite of a meticulous assembly of the fuel system (picture attached) I will get to do this little job over but looking for next steps. Been there now, done that but very aggravating. I can't get a video file small enough to post start up, idle and shut down starts up quick, idles nicely for about 20 seconds or so, stumble and dies like no fuel. I am thinking the fuel pump has failed even though NIB but I suppose it could be something else. If there are other tests I need to do to narrow down the failure, please advise.
Going back in I need to remove the Oeitick clamp that secures the exit line from the regulator. Normally, I would just grab the the clamping tool, twist back and forth until the clamp breaks but fearful of the barbed plastic fitting. Suggestions?
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Any preference on this tool, i.e. brand, where to buy, etc.? Where's Max when I need him.
