Yeah, I'm kind of lost on what or where R.polly is at with the bike. Once the new VOES is in, start a new thread with all the particulars. You issue will get resolved.
VOES Switch Explained
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 43
Likes: 6
From: Georgia
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/engin...huts-down.html
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,396
Likes: 2,596
From: NC USA
Assuming no intake leaks or carb adjustment issues - from an idle speed of approx 1000, the rpm will drop approx 300-400 when the switch opens.
Setting the idle speed with the switch open then closing the voes, the rpm rise won't always be consistent.
Setting the idle speed with the switch open then closing the voes, the rpm rise won't always be consistent.
Tourer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 469
Likes: 158
From: Alberta
On these older bikes like mine, I'm pretty sure that a lot of the problems with the VOES are related to the vacuum petcock. I know on my bike I was having some cold starting issues and not always easy to get a good idle. It was pretty good when fully warmed up but seemed a bit lacklustre in acceleration. Not bad, just not what I thought it should be.
I never thought it was VOES related but did suspect the vacuum petcock because I had the odd drop of gas from the petcock area and the cold start issue even with the choke activated. It seemed to act like a lack of fuel as the bike is not jetted rich.I replaced the vacuum petcock with a manual one and blocked off the vacuum port for the petcock at the VOES switch. Engine starts much better when cold and idles better. I also have no more fuel drips.
With our winters up here it will be awhile before I can test the bike out, but from my initial observations the change in petcocks has made it a different bike. When I now think about it and how the vacuum advance worked on the older cars, the symptoms are very similar. If I still have some issues in the spring, I'll look at replacing the VOES. I replaced the stock ignition module with the Dyna 2000, last year and it wants the VOES ( at least on the setting that I run ) so it was wired into the VOES, so it seems the bad vacuum petcock was likely causing my issues. Time will tell.
I never thought it was VOES related but did suspect the vacuum petcock because I had the odd drop of gas from the petcock area and the cold start issue even with the choke activated. It seemed to act like a lack of fuel as the bike is not jetted rich.I replaced the vacuum petcock with a manual one and blocked off the vacuum port for the petcock at the VOES switch. Engine starts much better when cold and idles better. I also have no more fuel drips.
With our winters up here it will be awhile before I can test the bike out, but from my initial observations the change in petcocks has made it a different bike. When I now think about it and how the vacuum advance worked on the older cars, the symptoms are very similar. If I still have some issues in the spring, I'll look at replacing the VOES. I replaced the stock ignition module with the Dyna 2000, last year and it wants the VOES ( at least on the setting that I run ) so it was wired into the VOES, so it seems the bad vacuum petcock was likely causing my issues. Time will tell.
Novice
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Gulfport, MS
Thanks. With the bike idling, there is no change to speak of. At a constant speed with about 3000 RPM, my tach will just jump up 2-300 RPMs and then go back. It happens continuously. I can't really feel the bike surge. I have changed the tach, coil, plug wires and VOES as part of a general tune up. The previous tach would swing wildly around all the time so I don't know if this was happening then or not but with a 34 year old bike I thought it best to change those items. Previously someone had mentioned that placing a resistor in line with the Tach feed would reduce the wild swings which I did but it didn't help the Tach so I changed the tach. I wonder if it could be what's causing the RPM jump. Maybe its building up some voltage in the line which is then discharging somehow. Weird!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,863
Likes: 7,982
From: poway
Thanks. With the bike idling, there is no change to speak of. At a constant speed with about 3000 RPM, my tach will just jump up 2-300 RPMs and then go back. It happens continuously. I can't really feel the bike surge. I have changed the tach, coil, plug wires and VOES as part of a general tune up. The previous tach would swing wildly around all the time so I don't know if this was happening then or not but with a 34 year old bike I thought it best to change those items. Previously someone had mentioned that placing a resistor in line with the Tach feed would reduce the wild swings which I did but it didn't help the Tach so I changed the tach. I wonder if it could be what's causing the RPM jump. Maybe its building up some voltage in the line which is then discharging somehow. Weird!
There is nothing wrong with the bike. I've seen various brands of aftermarket tach bobble up down 300 rpms. Some were real bad. If you want to fix it, go with Autometer. Kosos might work also.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,068
Likes: 7,599
From: Poolville
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