EVO All Evo Model Discussion

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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 08:27 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
To use the original non-adjustable pushrods, you don't have to pull the heads. Just the rocker boxes.
Sorry, I stand corrected. I've never done it that way. Presumably it involves removing the rocker arms? Is there a knack to it?

Yes, glidein, it's often the most expedient way, particularly if you're fitting a more radical cam or have skimmed the heads and want to use adjustable pushrods. You'll save time and hassle so it's also a pay off if you're putting your bike into a shop to do it ... lift the top end costs.

It depends what you want to achieve. If you don't want to inspect and redo or develop the head, then it's probably the way to go.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 09:07 AM
  #42  
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I've done it both ways. Cutting the old ones saves a lot of time.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 09:29 AM
  #43  
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Well I just did a compression test and had 130# in front &145# in rear, I would say that makes me happy.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 09:32 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by glidein wide
Well I just did a compression test and had 130# in front &145# in rear, I would say that makes me happy.
Generally a 10psi difference between the two is acceptable... you have a 15psi difference there. Might be getting into a bigger job than you planned on.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 10:01 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by glidein wide
Well I just did a compression test and had 130# in front &145# in rear, I would say that makes me happy.
That would make me tear into it, 10% difference.

Not acceptable for me, but that's me, good for some as long as it runs.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 11:02 AM
  #46  
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Exhaust valve worn, guide seals are probably hard too ... will still go for 10,000s so it depends what he wants to do with this time this winter!
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 11:20 AM
  #47  
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You are border line to doing a valve job that is what I would think based on todays fuels and your mileage. The rings are probably still good but with the addition of a new cam I would do the heads. Redo a compression test with oil and then a leak down to confirm..
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 11:25 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by glidein wide
Well I just did a compression test and had 130# in front &145# in rear, I would say that makes me happy.

stock compression on your bike should be around 150psi +/- 10 the 130 is to low. and the difference between cylinders should never be more than 10psi.


now you need to locate the problem by doing a leakdown test to find out where your loosing you compression if you don't have a leakdown tester
you can put one ounce of oil in the cylinder and do the compression test again if the compression comes back its your rings if it doesn't its your valves
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 11:57 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by D_gyver
stock compression on your bike should be around 150psi +/- 10 the 130 is to low. and the difference between cylinders should never be more than 10psi.


now you need to locate the problem by doing a leakdown test to find out where your loosing you compression if you don't have a leakdown tester
you can put one ounce of oil in the cylinder and do the compression test again if the compression comes back its your rings if it doesn't its your valves
I will be trying that next, though my service manual states that 90#+is sufficient, less than that there is a problem. Don't believe everything I read right?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 12:17 PM
  #50  
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Reread Schex3x's post #45. It's not the amount, per se, it's the difference of the amounts. I have no stake in this but perhaps you could PM Scott@hillside and get his estimates for a nice overhaul. No need, can the wants, to buy a Wood w8H and all other 11:1 pistons and the accompanying financial mess. Hillside is a proven site sponsor. Heck, pm John Z and ask for his recommendations and pricing.
It's only your money that we want to spend...
Tom
 
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