EVO All Evo Model Discussion

cam curious

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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 12:55 PM
  #51  
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I do appreciate the advice but there's no pride in having someone else rebuild my motor for me. I do have access to cnc or Bridgeport if need be ,shop nearby to handle valveseats and honing, boring or whatever I choose to do with it. Never painted a bike before but did mine after a few questions, except for the sandblasting,most can't believe I did the job myself, but that's who I am, thick skulled.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 12:56 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by glidein wide
I will be trying that next, though my service manual states that 90#+is sufficient, less than that there is a problem. Don't believe everything I read right?
It is my firm belief that some specs in the book are there so Harley can claim there is nothing wrong and won't cover it under warranty (while the bike is still under warranty that is).
If I recall correctly your book also tells you the cylinders should be within 10% of each other.
Yours aren't.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 12:59 PM
  #53  
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Gotcha
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 01:03 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by glidein wide
I will be trying that next, though my service manual states that 90#+is sufficient, less than that there is a problem. Don't believe everything I read right?
I had more than 90 in mine, don't remember how much now, but I had leaking exhaust valves they were in rough shape
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 01:21 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by glidein wide
I will be trying that next, though my service manual states that 90#+is sufficient, less than that there is a problem. Don't believe everything I read right?

you were reading it right a Harley will run with 90 psi but will be a dog out of the hole a moped will beat you stoplight to stoplight. and every time you shift it will fall on its face.


with any evo stock and an L grind cam should have 152psi at a 7.8:1 ratio
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 01:26 PM
  #56  
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use your hose from the compression tester with the shrader valve removed, and put some air in the cyl. , should be easy to tell what's leaking if you want to take the time to see what's up.
Otherwise sounds like we gonna rebuild it.

Hmmm ,, w6 or w8 ,w6h maybe, who we sending the heads too, flat tops or domes,.. decisions,decisions.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 02:19 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by glidein wide
I do appreciate the advice but there's no pride in having someone else rebuild my motor for me. I do have access to cnc or Bridgeport if need be ,shop nearby to handle valveseats and honing, boring or whatever I choose to do with it. Never painted a bike before but did mine after a few questions, except for the sandblasting,most can't believe I did the job myself, but that's who I am, thick skulled.
I had 145psi in one pot and 130psi in the other. On opening up it was an intake valve seat problem and at 100k miles it was still standard bore.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 02:29 PM
  #58  
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Easy peasy cut the pushrods, purchase a set of adjustale pushrods and a cam spacer kit and a cam cover gasket and the cam of your choice. SE-11 worked well for me.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 02:42 PM
  #59  
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His numbers are within 10%, plus/minus margin of error. Was this done on a hot engine? That's the spec. Personally, I'd put the cam in and run it, unless you just really want to do a top end at 40K. These ain't shovelheads needing a top end every 20K.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 03:14 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
His numbers are within 10%, plus/minus margin of error. Was this done on a hot engine? That's the spec. Personally, I'd put the cam in and run it, unless you just really want to do a top end at 40K. These ain't shovelheads needing a top end every 20K.
Doc I don't think so.
With numbers of 145 and 130 he is 0.5 too low on the lower cylinder.
Granted it is close but it is outside the 10% range.
 
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