EVO All Evo Model Discussion

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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 06:47 PM
  #71  
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From: la la land jerzey
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the way we teach in the shop is look at the third - but pump it till it stops making numbers

wait 10 min give the charger time to pull the battery back

unless we find an issue we dont use an oil down as the amount used and its complete piston top coverage comes into question < you cant tell and the 45 angle is playing a part

do the leak down with the timing plug out - carb wide open no air filter - a piece of 3/8 oil hose helps in hearing lower unit loss ( timing plug ) -- BUT i only go looking in a small way as if you have more then 20 / 25 percent you need to take it apart -- 10 / 15 percent it normal

your motor is fine 130 and more -- slide in a andrews 27 -

HOW TO DO IT

front pipe off
top boxes off
cam cover off
replace bearing - and plastic breather - i use the S&S reed breather
swap the gear

PUT it all back together with Cometic tin gaskets top rocker boxes - blown foam cam cover - Harley rubber top covers - re seal the intake - set the engine tune -

the bike will preform like you took 250 pounds off of it - its that simple
 
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 07:14 PM
  #72  
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From: ct
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Thanks for the schooling...
 
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 03:23 PM
  #73  
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Well here's the latest, redid compression test and had same thing, squirted oil in front jug only,had 150psi. So my question is why would the rings wear faster in one jug??
 
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 03:34 PM
  #74  
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From: la la land jerzey
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some place i thought i read you were going to do a leak down test

the timing hole with a greater voluum of air and noise would have answered your question

more sound in carb OR TAIL PIPES IS ALSO POSSABLE
 
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 04:25 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz
some place i thought i read you were going to do a leak down test

the timing hole with a greater voluum of air and noise would have answered your question

more sound in carb OR TAIL PIPES IS ALSO POSSABLE
yeh I was planning on doing leakdown test also,should I do it anyway or don't bother,seems like worn rings right?
 
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 05:35 PM
  #76  
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From: la la land jerzey
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the only time i guess whats wrong is when i am in the processes of the disassemble, of the entire motor - kind of like i wonder if its this or that

if its on your dime we try and have a real plan before we take the wrenches to it
 
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 05:45 PM
  #77  
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From: ct
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Gotcha
 
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Old Jan 30, 2015 | 06:47 PM
  #78  
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There seem to be a few folk clearing out Crane H286 cams. I see one NOS on Ebay at $99.

It's wrongly advertized as a H286-28, should be a H286-2B ... which means it has a multi-index ring ... three cam timing settings with a single camshaft (4 degrees advance, original timing & 4 degrees retarded) if you like fiddling.

Anyone used one?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 08:04 AM
  #79  
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From: la la land jerzey
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Originally Posted by Dun Roamin
There seem to be a few folk clearing out Crane H286 cams. I see one NOS on Ebay at $99.

It's wrongly advertized as a H286-28, should be a H286-2B ... which means it has a multi-index ring ... three cam timing settings with a single camshaft (4 degrees advance, original timing & 4 degrees retarded) if you like fiddling.

Anyone used one?
its 100 bucks for the cam - 14 shipping and 26 to return it to the usa - 140 and it might take a couple of months to get

that cam back in the day H 286 - 2B is barky at idle pulls down low to mid likes more compression and some had soft lobes we sent back maybe 10 under warr for exchange - allong with ignition cone triggers i think eveyone i put in went bad in 2 years -- early crane stuff worked well but had issues - at 25 bucks i would pass
 
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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 08:32 AM
  #80  
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Mornin John ,yeh I agree with that. Is there a number on cam I can check or see without pulling cam out? It looks like someone has been in there before, here is a pic.
 

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