Claussens primer/sealer/surfacer with its own guide coat. Used to be you had dupont, ditzler and martin senour if u was really cheap. Now RM, glasurit, sikkens, cheap no name brands from eastwood and summit, and a dozen oher brands I cant remember.
Guns were devilbiss and binks and **** primer guns from sears. Now Iwata, Sata, even all plastic disposable guns.

 

The shop I have will be a bit tough to get a clean paint job done. But I have done a makeshift paint booth out of plastic sheeting.

HVLP I gotta do some cking on them and some practice with one is best I.m told.

Moving around Yup been there. I have some stands for holding the parts out of 1x2's and old brake rotors that I had laying around.

 

Yea this is gonna take a few bucks. Ya know I bet I still have a primer gun from sears in another cabinet. I ain't gonna trust it

 

WP, The guns I use are hvlp from harbor freight or swap meet tool tents. I wouldn't spend a lot on spray guns, especially if you are only going to use them for one job

 

Stopped by a body shop we do alignments and some repairs for. Have used some different paints long ago. Was told to use Advantage 2K urethane primer surfacer. I was given a quart and a pint of activator. Not to look a gift horse in the mouth.

Any of y'all know of this product?
first I have heard of it.
The shop has a good rep in the community

Thanks WP

 

Your primer gun fluid tip should be 1.4 mm minimum, 1.8 would be better. If you use the liquid bond stuff u need a 2.2 I think.
Everybody under the sun has a paint products line, and they all call their urethane 2k.
There used 2 be only 2 chemical plants in the US that made the components for body filler, I always figured it was the same thing with the 2k stuff.
I use diffrent products together all the time, though you get lectured about not doing it. Manufacturers want you to buy all their stuff only. But I quit using diamont because it just got too expensive for example. I would only be careful with etching primers and what you put on top of them. Most shops don't use etching anymore. An epoxy primer sealer followed by 2k, maybe a thin sealer on top if they are a better shop.
Clean your garage good, fresh tack clothes, clean the first 10 feet of your airline, wet down the floor, try not to disturb anything when your painting, cover your stands with garbage bags. You can get a pro looking job, prep everything well.

 

That Binks is one heck of a gun, HVLP is today but going to cost a quart of each tri coat no matter which type of gun you use. Don't paint much any more unless a GOOD friend wants something done and my old school Sharpe will put down show finish when needed that will satisfy any critics at a bike night.

 

I think I have aline on a friends gun to use. Gotta do some cking on which tips he has in there. I'm gonna take some time and use some product to play with if I go ahead and shoot this myself.

Mixing products has been tabu since I can remember. Have seen some trouble with doing so or that was what got the blame anyhow.
Thanks WP

 

The ol guns served their purpose very well for me in times gone by, I gotta admit the overspray was a B to contend with in those days.

It's been said to me switching to HVLP ya almost gotta learn to paint all over again.

May have a chance to go watch a fella shoot a car with an HVLP. If I can get the time I want to watch and maybe learn a little.
Thanks WP

 

Here is the gun that I use, it shoots better than my Devilbs with half the waste.
They come in different tip sizes.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400cc-HVLP-A...item19f7249702

Like CDF said, I have mixed systems, but you need to make sure it is cured.
Depending on paint, this is also true when shooting top coat. some paints if you hit it while it is kicking you can get all kind of problems, so either shoot within the time frame of the paint spects, or wait till it cures to recoat.
(read the directions;-)