Paint question
Thread Starter
|
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,183
Likes: 2,131
From: W. Texas
[QUOTE=CDF346;13655015]
Not laquer if that's your question
Harley stopped using laquer in the mid 80"s
Mid 90's, I dunno. Probably acrylic enamel. But if your wondering if its safe to shoot on top of, yes, will be fine. Finish with 400-600 wet. If you want to be sure of seeing no sand scratches in the finish, take it to 600.
As long as it is Not Lacquer I should be OK
Take it to 600 ???
Even if I'm going to use a primer sealer before paint????
Got some scratches I'd like to be gone.
WP
Not laquer if that's your question
Harley stopped using laquer in the mid 80"s
Mid 90's, I dunno. Probably acrylic enamel. But if your wondering if its safe to shoot on top of, yes, will be fine. Finish with 400-600 wet. If you want to be sure of seeing no sand scratches in the finish, take it to 600.
Take it to 600 ???
Even if I'm going to use a primer sealer before paint????
Got some scratches I'd like to be gone.
WP
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 286
From: Buford, GA
Sharp Electra Glide WP!
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 163
Likes: 3
From: Illinois
[QUOTE=WP50;13656337]
600 is overkill, but its not much extra after 400, but its up to you.
You can fog it with a contrasting flat spray between each grit to "see" you are getting the previous grit scratches out.
If you not going to strip it, break and feather all your scratches and scrapes. Bomb it with 3-4 coats of surfacer. Fog it with a contrasting color and block it in diagonal motion. Knock it down with 120-150. You will see low spot you need to prime again. The rear fenders are usually pretty ripply in comparison to the front, tanks are usually pretty straight.
The thing about priming and painting; everybody has their own technique to get to the finish. None of them are wrong as long as it looks good when done.
You can fog it with a contrasting flat spray between each grit to "see" you are getting the previous grit scratches out.
If you not going to strip it, break and feather all your scratches and scrapes. Bomb it with 3-4 coats of surfacer. Fog it with a contrasting color and block it in diagonal motion. Knock it down with 120-150. You will see low spot you need to prime again. The rear fenders are usually pretty ripply in comparison to the front, tanks are usually pretty straight.
The thing about priming and painting; everybody has their own technique to get to the finish. None of them are wrong as long as it looks good when done.
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 574
Likes: 3
From: AB Canada
Whatever paint line you end up choosing, get the TDS ( technical data sheet ) for all the products you are using. The TDS will tell you how to prep your parts ( what grit to finish prior to paint ) as well as flash times, mixing ratios, reducer options, gun set-up, re-coat windows etc....
The TDS sheets are either available on-line, or through the jobber you're buying your products from.
The TDS sheets are either available on-line, or through the jobber you're buying your products from.
Thread Starter
|
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,183
Likes: 2,131
From: W. Texas
Thanks WP
Thread Starter
|
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,183
Likes: 2,131
From: W. Texas
Whatever paint line you end up choosing, get the TDS ( technical data sheet ) for all the products you are using. The TDS will tell you how to prep your parts ( what grit to finish prior to paint ) as well as flash times, mixing ratios, reducer options, gun set-up, re-coat windows etc....
The TDS sheets are either available on-line, or through the jobber you're buying your products from.
The TDS sheets are either available on-line, or through the jobber you're buying your products from.
WP
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post