Anyone ever hear of Pivot Works bearing? 2 bearings with races and seal for 12 or Drag specialties kit looks like 2 timkens LM11949 with races and seals for 18, shows my front and rear takes same kit on a 95 flhtc.
Not afraid of a lil grease, save myself some bucks and change them myself.
Got a bit of wobble let someone ride my bike they felt, guess came on gradually, i just correct with a lean this way and that I guess?
So gonna do wheel bearings and a Rivera Stiffey Suspension Kit see if she feels like olden days.
Sorry wordy......

 

You need the tool to take the race out.

 

ill pull them and see if race is ok? maybe just get away with bearing and seals ya?

 

X2, if the outer race is good I'd just replace the inner.

 

I would look at the bearings first, unless there's water intrusion, they're probably ok and just need to be repacked.

For the wobble, on these old bikes, there's several things that need to be addressed if you really want to improve the ride and handling.
I'm sure all this will be too much for plenty riders that are content at a turtle's pace wallowing on down the road, stop here if so.


Of coarse, wheels and tires condition and bearing endplay, get endplay down to .002" -.003" checked off the bike with dry bearings and no seals.

Swing arm - I'd recommend a spherical bearing conversion (CCE), weather you upgrade to the better '02+ swingarm or not, use Aurora bearings, not HD OE bearings.
Although they halfass work and much less expesive, solid bushings is not the way to go, been there, can explain why if interested.

Neck bearings - the condition and adjustment is obvious.

Motor mounts - or should I say drivetrain mounts, new rear donuts and front mount.
The donut mount stiffener insert bushings help here, the GlidePro front mount is working well for me.

Alignment - this is very important, period. Look through all the videos.
http://www.glide-pro.com/media.html

Suspension - Pull fork sliders, the only way to know if the bushings are worn is to look, the seal and bushing kit from JP cycles is cheap and work well, don't pay HD prices here. Not a hard job at all, can be done without getting into the fairing.
Good rear shocks, not trying to recommend a certain shock because there's a few good brands that'll get the job done, but the way the Ohlins transformed the ride and feel of my bike make them the best investment so far.

After getting the whole package together, it's almost effortless to cruise though the twisties at speeds that make other riders color their underwear trying to wrestle their bike to keep up.

Really makes you love your ride.

 

If your gonna replace the bearings, then replace the races as well. The driver tool is pretty cheap. Yes, have some shims in different thickness on hand to get endplay correct. I hate running out for parts half way thru a job. Personally for the $$ bucks difference, I would do the timkens. YD

 

Ill tear it down, see what they look like, as for swing arm I already ordered the Rivera stiffey hard bushing, I didnt think it handled bad before so im sure ill like the improvement. I have a front grease seal leaking so ill grab seals and repack hopefull be on the road again in hours.

 

When I replaced the wheel bearings on my Shovel I called at a local auto parts store - they are the same as the front wheel bearings on an old Ford! They ain't special and can be had from any bearing stockist, so don't go out of your way to find replacements. It would help if you take an old one with you as the numbers engraved on them will identify what they are.

 

got the timken #s so should be easy to find and avoid dealer, iffy if the seals can be had outside of dealer