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Weak starter or solenoid issue??

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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 03:57 PM
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Default Weak starter or solenoid issue??

I have an 86 fxstc and I have developed a starting issue. I had rebuilt the upper end and everything was staring well until I attempted to set the s&s carb and fouled the plugs. So after that I was attempting to start the bike and the starter quit working. I could hear a click when the starter button was engaged.

I began trouble shooting. The battery is charged, the solenoid has battery voltage at the incoming post, it has battery voltage from the relay to the little post when the starter button is pressed, and then battery voltage to the starter when the button is pressed.

I suspected the starter, I took it off and took it to the electric shop. It was looked at, load tested, and even dissembled and inspected and he said it looked good. After I reassembled the bike and went to try it, it turned over for a second.

So, figuring I still had some electrical bug I decided when I went to fully start the bike I would jump it from my truck, thinking if it was a low voltage issue that would prevent it. The starter turned over but it was weak. It did this a few times, now just a click again.

Any ideas where to start
 
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 04:04 PM
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Ground cable is OK? All the connections are tight?

Try cleaning the solenoid. It will come apart and you can clean up the copper disk with some fine sand paper. Pretty easy to take off, as you don't have to pull the primary cover. Also consider a Dreaded Click 2nd relay mod. There's a sticky on one way to do it. I did mine a little different, but I haven't had a Dreaded Click event since. You can test for a Dreaded Click issue by jumping +12V directly to the solenoid pull in terminal. If it cranks fine then but not with the button, then that's your problem.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 04:05 PM
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Load test the battery and clean n re tighten the pos and neg cables. Maybe a weak starter relay.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 04:44 PM
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Default Weak starter or solenoid issue??

Well, I double checked the connections and it turned over for a second before stopping and just the clicking relay again. I attempted to jump 12v directly to the starter to no avail... Would the direct wired starter not spin if the solenoid was bad?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 04:56 PM
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Have you load tested the battery? If the battery and connections are solid and the relay is good than it could be the battery. By chance is the inner primary chrome and the starter chrome? The starter is body grounded. Some guys put an additional grounding cable directly to the starter. Still a few variables to figure out.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 05:12 PM
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Default Weak starter or solenoid issue??

The inner primary is chrome but the starter isn't. It is grounded also to the transmission... I haven't load tested the battery yet but will do that tomorrow when I wake up. Then will clean the solenoid. I had replaced the solenoid with a new drag specialties one last year about this time for the precious late owner. The battery is just a little over a year old also...

Thanks for the help so far!
 
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 05:19 PM
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No prob. Sometimes its hard to get to the bottom of issues over the net.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 08:33 PM
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Do as Dr Hess suggested "
Try cleaning the solenoid. It will come apart and you can clean up the copper disk with some fine sand paper. Pretty easy to take off, as you don't have to pull the primary cover." I've found that they get pitted pretty good. Back in the old days starters I was able to simply flip the disc over to get a fresh clean surface.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by RidemyEVO
Do as Dr Hess suggested "
Try cleaning the solenoid. It will come apart and you can clean up the copper disk with some fine sand paper. Pretty easy to take off, as you don't have to pull the primary cover." I've found that they get pitted pretty good. Back in the old days starters I was able to simply flip the disc over to get a fresh clean surface.
If you are careful you can flip the new ones. The c clip is a pain though. I've filed mine twice in 130,000 miles. Next time it will get flipped. The more crucial part is twisting the "L" tab on the positive side post. You end up reducing the contact surface by 80%. I've seen guys over tighten the positive post at the solenoid and it twists the stud.
 
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