'99 EVO electrical problem
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: E-town, Alberta
'99 EVO electrical problem
So I recently replaced the charging system in my EVO and it worked great for the first month but just started to act up. When I come to a stop I loose all my electronics but bike stays running. It's almost like it happens when I drop below 15Kmh and dosent kick back in untill I'm almost ready to shift into second. I tried bringing the rpm's up while stopped but it won't kick in but I don't hold the rpm's high for long, dont wanna grenade anything. I have full power at the stator plug and 14'ish volts at the battery while running. Everything works fine while I warm it up and the problem dosent start untill I start riding. Any ideas?
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From: Poolville
When you say you replaced the charging system, what exactly did you replace (what brand parts did you use...) and did you test your charging system according to the sticky here on the forum or even by your FSM?
If you test for ac voltage at your stator connector @2000 rpm it should be putting out 30-36v ac.
If you test for ac voltage at your stator connector @2000 rpm it should be putting out 30-36v ac.
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Jun 17, 2016 at 08:51 AM.
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From: NW AR
Where the Hell is Edmonton?
It sounds to me like you have a short in your accessory circuit. When you say "lose electronics," exactly what is going out? If you have it at idle and the brake not on, and it only goes out with the brake on, there's a hint. Check the battery voltage with the brake on and off.
It sounds to me like you have a short in your accessory circuit. When you say "lose electronics," exactly what is going out? If you have it at idle and the brake not on, and it only goes out with the brake on, there's a hint. Check the battery voltage with the brake on and off.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 429
From: E-town, Alberta
Where the Hell is Edmonton?
It sounds to me like you have a short in your accessory circuit. When you say "lose electronics," exactly what is going out? If you have it at idle and the brake not on, and it only goes out with the brake on, there's a hint. Check the battery voltage with the brake on and off.
It sounds to me like you have a short in your accessory circuit. When you say "lose electronics," exactly what is going out? If you have it at idle and the brake not on, and it only goes out with the brake on, there's a hint. Check the battery voltage with the brake on and off.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 429
From: E-town, Alberta
When you say you replaced the charging system, what exactly did you replace (what brand parts did you use...) and did you test your charging system according to the sticky here on the forum or even by your FSM?
If you test for ac voltage at your stator connector @2000 rpm it should be putting out 30-36v ac.
If you test for ac voltage at your stator connector @2000 rpm it should be putting out 30-36v ac.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 1,853
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From: E-town, Alberta
So I went to play around with it and troubleshoot what I could without a meter and when I turn the ignition on I can her a few clicks coming from the fuse/relay box that wasn't there before. Does this sound familiar to anyone?
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Brighton, MI
Sounds like a short and the circuit breaker is doing it's job shutting the circuit down.
Look for loose wires, loose connections, or wires that have the outside insulation rubbed away from them, or areas where the wire comes close to the frame, engine etc.
Time to play detective and go over every wire. Don't take things apart to get at wires yet, other than removing seat, fuel tank, etc. Only take those off as needed to inspect wires and harness. I would start near the circuit breakers. Checking connections and wires.
The circuit breaker is designed to trip when there is a short. Then when it cools off, it auto resets. Get to the circuit breaker panel with everything off, then when your ear is near the panel, turn on the ignition switch to locate which breaker or confirm that the noise you hear is a breaker. That will help identify the group of wires you need to focus on. If you can't hear "which one" then disconnect one breaker at a time till the noise goes away. That is your bad circuit.
Do you own a factory manual? Use the manual to identify what circuit or group (colors) of wires you need to focus in on while inspecting for shorts. Could also be simply a bad circuit breaker, but I doubt it is as simple as that. Would be nice though. Might want to pick up a spare breaker to change out when you find the breaker that is "clicking". Identify the one "clicking" and swap it out with the new one, just to eliminate the chance it is a bad breaker. YD
Look for loose wires, loose connections, or wires that have the outside insulation rubbed away from them, or areas where the wire comes close to the frame, engine etc.
Time to play detective and go over every wire. Don't take things apart to get at wires yet, other than removing seat, fuel tank, etc. Only take those off as needed to inspect wires and harness. I would start near the circuit breakers. Checking connections and wires.
The circuit breaker is designed to trip when there is a short. Then when it cools off, it auto resets. Get to the circuit breaker panel with everything off, then when your ear is near the panel, turn on the ignition switch to locate which breaker or confirm that the noise you hear is a breaker. That will help identify the group of wires you need to focus on. If you can't hear "which one" then disconnect one breaker at a time till the noise goes away. That is your bad circuit.
Do you own a factory manual? Use the manual to identify what circuit or group (colors) of wires you need to focus in on while inspecting for shorts. Could also be simply a bad circuit breaker, but I doubt it is as simple as that. Would be nice though. Might want to pick up a spare breaker to change out when you find the breaker that is "clicking". Identify the one "clicking" and swap it out with the new one, just to eliminate the chance it is a bad breaker. YD
Last edited by Yankee Dog; Jun 19, 2016 at 07:13 AM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: E-town, Alberta
I read the sticky 10 times and have trouble understanding it on a good day so reading it an 11'th time likely won't help besides my headlight is wired right to the battery (55 watt HID) so the sticky test dosent apply and the charging system appears to be ok. I am going to replace all 4 relays just in case. So it looks like a short somewhere correct? A HUGE thanks to everyone chipping in on this, all your help is GREATLY appreciated
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: E-town, Alberta
The pulled relay was the one clicking when I turned the ignition on but now the one to the right of it clicks and my spedo and dash lights flicker on and off intermittently when I fire it up. Any ideas? I'm guessing a short within one or both of those circuits? Don't be afraid to dumb it down to a 4'th grade level for me, when it comes to electrical I am lost. Thanks a bunch for your help, it is VERY much appreciated
