EVO All Evo Model Discussion

91 flhs ignition toggle

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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 10:26 PM
  #41  
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Ok, I was just basing it off of the articles I read about lean vs rich:

Too Lean

When a carburetor is running lean, the fuel-to-air ratio is off because the carburetor is delivering too much air. Typical symptoms of a lean mixture are:
  • Backfiring as the throttle is closed (primarily during coast-downs) ****
  • Lurching acceleration
  • White or light gray spark plugs
  • Requiring excessive amounts of choke to run/start ****
  • White or light gray muffler end pipes
  • Bluing (on chrome systems) of the exhaust header down-pipes****
The ones with stars by them are what has been noticeably going for a while, so I figured it was a too lean scenario.

either way the plugs are getting replaced, so I can go from there and see why happens
 
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 07:04 AM
  #42  
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FWIW you can also get back firing if you are too rich.
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html

Get some new plugs and see what they tell you.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 11:37 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
FWIW you can also get back firing if you are too rich.
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html

Get some new plugs and see what they tell you.
i was unaware, thank you very much!

tried tuning it out last night, and wound up running the battery down so it is on a trickle charge now.

i just reset it back to where it was when I pulled it, and then I will re adjust from there.

The point where here it had optimal throttle response and took longer to die out, was only 650rpm. The service manual says 1000-1050. Any recommendations on why that would be so substantially lower?
 
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 12:03 PM
  #44  
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That carb is just screwed. You need to either start over on it or with a different carb.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 12:33 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
That carb is just screwed. You need to either start over on it or with a different carb.
So no hope? 😔 well ****.

Reason i have been in such a rush trying to get done is I just had a new baby, and my bike is my only way to get out to see them an hour away.

If getting a new carb is the play here, what would you recommend? Stick with the CV, or go to something like a super e? Please keep in mind I am not that experienced mechanically, so I need to make sure I am able to work on it myself.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 12:49 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Cowboy812


So no hope? �� well ****.

Reason i have been in such a rush trying to get done is I just had a new baby, and my bike is my only way to get out to see them an hour away.

If getting a new carb is the play here, what would you recommend? Stick with the CV, or go to something like a super e? Please keep in mind I am not that experienced mechanically, so I need to make sure I am able to work on it myself.
Super E all the way for me.

Here is the break down
CV best mileage
Mikuni - best street carb
Super E - easiest to work on and best race carb
 
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 12:54 PM
  #47  
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Does changing over to a super e just require changing out the manifold?
 
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 12:58 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Cowboy812
Does changing over to a super e just require changing out the manifold?
Yes but IMO it's a better system.
The super e bolts directly to the manifold rather than the way the CV just kinda hangs in there.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 01:02 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
Yes but IMO it's a better system.
The super e bolts directly to the manifold rather than the way the CV just kinda hangs in there.
That alone sounds like a huge improvement to me lol
 
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 01:10 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Cowboy812


That alone sounds like a huge improvement to me lol
Call my buddy Geoff at Antler Creek Cycle Leathers and see what kind of price he can give you.
 
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