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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 04:50 PM
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Default Help with Carb

Hi folks,
Im new here, not sure if Im asking this at the right place, if not, my apologies...
I just got a FLSTC '92, it is gorgeous, idling beautifully, etc...THEN went for a quick ride and had to switch to reserve... well, it was my first ride after i got it, right!? So, after that, IDLE is misfiring or something like that... looks like it got some sort of a dirt in there... and I need to ride with choke on, or with some throttle in it... otherwise!? LOUD misfires... It's annoying, specially knowing that it was just PERFECT!!
Anyway, from what i searched so far, looks like it, it could be the idle jet... so, yesterday i found a video of a guy cleaning it up... so my question is, is it doable? do i need more than just will power? heheh i mean, do i need to check service manual for this? do i need a torque wrench, with proper settings, etc...
Suggestions?!

Thanks in advance,
Alex
 
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 05:15 PM
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Hi mate.
So the misfire etc only happened after you switched to reserve? I would 1st drain what fuel is left in your tank and remove your fuel tap.
There is a screen attached to the fuel tap which maybe clogged/filthy and this is restricting fuel flow, when you hit reserve you are using the last few litres of fuel in your tank and this could be full of rust or dirt or just plain crap.
who knows if that tank has ever been drained or cleaned out, also put a bit of fuel in the tanks and swish it around and dump it, that will at the very least get some crap out of the tanks.
Put the fuel tap back on and check you have decent flow, if so then hook it up and see how she runs.
If it still runs like crap then post back here and let us all know so we can help.

Any yes...get a Manual and Torque wrench, you will need them anyway.
The above info is in the manual as well.

Dave.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 05:20 PM
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Always start with the simple **** and Dave's suggestion is a great simple place to start.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 05:42 PM
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GREAT STUFF, GUYS!!!

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! Because i will be honest, this is driving me nuts... I already added fuel, it runs but can't idle... it is driving me nuts, cause before the switch it was just GREAT!!!

So, will give it a shot and keep you guys posted!! Once again, thank you very much!
 
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 06:42 PM
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You most likely sucked something from the bottom of the tank when you ran it on reserve. Like the others said, drain the gas, clean/replace the screen and clean out the carb as it sounds like you got something in the idle (low speed) circuit of your carb.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 03:13 PM
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Hi guys,

Once gain thank you very much for the tips above, over the weekend I purged and cleaned up the tank, the net and petcock... filtering the gas i got lots of rust and small dirt... so, I put it back, filled again... it improved A LOT!!! I mean, it's not misfiring anymore with those loud "explosions" after warming her up, idle is almost good without the need of the choke... BUT, if i try to ride or climb up my driveway it "fails", i mean... looks like failing/stalling, i can hear the carb sucking air or something....

Next step is clean up the carb, i guess? Any tips?

Thanks in advance,
Alex
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by amarcon
Hi guys,

Once gain thank you very much for the tips above, over the weekend I purged and cleaned up the tank, the net and petcock... filtering the gas i got lots of rust and small dirt... so, I put it back, filled again... it improved A LOT!!! I mean, it's not misfiring anymore with those loud "explosions" after warming her up, idle is almost good without the need of the choke... BUT, if i try to ride or climb up my driveway it "fails", i mean... looks like failing/stalling, i can hear the carb sucking air or something....

Next step is clean up the carb, i guess? Any tips?

Thanks in advance,
Alex
Start the bike and while it’s idling, spray some carb cleaner or WD-40 around the area of the intake manifold where it joins with the heads as well as where the carb goes into it. If the idle increases you have an intake leak and need to remove and reinstall the manifold and carburetor. Shovels and Evo’s had problems with intake leaks. If everything is not lined up and sealed it can cause popping and missing.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by IronAss

Start the bike and while it’s idling, spray some carb cleaner or WD-40 around the area of the intake manifold where it joins with the heads as well as where the carb goes into it. If the idle increases you have an intake leak and need to remove and reinstall the manifold and carburetor. Shovels and Evo’s had problems with intake leaks. If everything is not lined up and sealed it can cause popping and missing.
Everytime I found an intake leak on something spraying wd40 or even starting fluid it kills the idle... I’ve never had it increase the idle.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 04:36 PM
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My $0.02 on that: I wouldn't bother too much with trying to test for intake leaks. Easier just assume the seals are bad on a 26 year old bike and replace them (both of the seals between the manifold and the heads, as well as the seal between the manifold and the carb). As long as you've got the carb off for cleaning and such anyway, doing the seals at the same time is a no-brainer. The seals themselves are cheap enough.

As for the carb, nothing rocket-science here. Just get a complete rebuild kit. All the gaskets and seals get replaced. Replace the float valve too. Polish the float valve seat (a dab of polishing compound on a q-tip will do). Clean all the parts in a PineSol soak overnight. Blow out all the passages with compressed air. Use pipe cleaners where you can to get any gunk.

I'm a fan of CV Performance for HD carb parts. They have everything you need.

As long as you're in that far, replacing the fuel line is a "may as well". Also, the stock inlet nipple on these is crap. It's plastic molded around a brass bit. Pull that thing out and put on a solid brass nipple. Easy enough to do and you'll never regret it.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 0maha
My $0.02 on that: I wouldn't bother too much with trying to test for intake leaks. Easier just assume the seals are bad on a 26 year old bike and replace them (both of the seals between the manifold and the heads, as well as the seal between the manifold and the carb). As long as you've got the carb off for cleaning and such anyway, doing the seals at the same time is a no-brainer. The seals themselves are cheap enough.

As for the carb, nothing rocket-science here. Just get a complete rebuild kit. All the gaskets and seals get replaced. Replace the float valve too. Polish the float valve seat (a dab of polishing compound on a q-tip will do). Clean all the parts in a PineSol soak overnight. Blow out all the passages with compressed air. Use pipe cleaners where you can to get any gunk.

I'm a fan of CV Performance for HD carb parts. They have everything you need.

As long as you're in that far, replacing the fuel line is a "may as well". Also, the stock inlet nipple on these is crap. It's plastic molded around a brass bit. Pull that thing out and put on a solid brass nipple. Easy enough to do and you'll never regret it.
Excellent advice, I’m working on my carb... next time she’s off, the fuel line and inlet nipple will be replaced!
 
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