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I wonder if the stiffness of the stock version was part of the design. Then again, compared to the forces involved, that stiffness is probably immaterial, and your thought of maintenance free is probably it.
That's my best bet! The amount of actual motion of these things while riding is, I suspect, very small. It would be even less with the 'missing' third link installed! I can move all three of my s/s ones quite easily with my fingers.
When mine finally wore out on my 1994 Road King, the upper sounded like a yellow rubber duck in a bath tub at slow speed... and was a bitch to figure out as it only squeeked when rolling. A shot or two of white lithium spray here and there finally found the culprit. I don't think they are meant to move or rotate, so much as let things shake.
When mine finally wore out on my 1994 Road King, the upper sounded like a yellow rubber duck in a bath tub at slow speed... and was a bitch to figure out as it only squeeked when rolling. A shot or two of white lithium spray here and there finally found the culprit. I don't think they are meant to move or rotate, so much as let things shake.
I studied kinematics as an engineering student and the principles used in our rubber-mounts do allow for free motion at all the various points of contact of the engine/trans and frame. All three of my Glide's stabilizers have free-moving spherical joints and it works fine. I occasionally use waterproof grease to lubricate mine, applied by fingers after cleaning off any dirt. Next time I'm in the garage I'll check the stabilizers on my Buell and Sporty!
I can't individually say what did what but without tight joints is it IMPOSABLE to align the wheels.
After I replaced everything, this is the best handling HD platform I have ridden (with 3rd link)
I got my my engine, trans, and swingarm mounted back in the bike last night. Also mounted the new links. I can say this...they are soooooo much tighter than the ones I removed. One of the links on each assembly was frozen in an odd position, and wouldn't budge. The other link would rattle around and was notchy feeling, but it wouldn't actually spin in the link. Im certain they needed to be replaced, along with all the other rubber mounts I changed.
Why? To reduce the things an owner has to service. I've had my all-metal s/s ones for over a decade and they are fine - free moving and easily serviced occasionally with a little weather-proof grease.
Good choice on your part. I use milspec surplus aircraft Heim joints. (I was avionics then engine mech and crew chief on Broncos, Phantoms and F-16s.) Consumer grade parts are fecal for good reasons including cost in volume. I first used milspec Heim joints to replace the "lawnmower parts" (look under a riding mower if ya think I'm kidding) shift linkage on my FXRs then engine stab links as they wore out. Stock HD parts work but they are simply not high quality and milsurp is often less costly than stock or aftermarket stock replacement.
Good choice on your part. I use milspec surplus aircraft Heim joints. (I was avionics then engine mech and crew chief on Broncos, Phantoms and F-16s.) Consumer grade parts are fecal for good reasons including cost in volume. I first used milspec Heim joints to replace the "lawnmower parts" (look under a riding mower if ya think I'm kidding) shift linkage on my FXRs then engine stab links as they wore out. Stock HD parts work but they are simply not high quality and milsurp is often less costly than stock or aftermarket stock replacement.
Where can I find milspec/ surplus heim joints for these?
I can't individually say what did what but without tight joints is it IMPOSABLE to align the wheels.
After I replaced everything, this is the best handling HD platform I have ridden (with 3rd link)
It's amazing how well our 'old ladies' can ride isn't it?! When I first did my Glide I also owned a Dyna and upgraded both bikes at the same time. In some ways the Dyna benefitted even more than the Glide, especially at slow speeds.
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