EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Dry Primary vs Wet

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Old May 19, 2019 | 12:02 PM
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Default Dry Primary vs Wet

Hello Everyone,

I have an '84 FXR(T) with an Evo motor. (The bike is no longer a T.)

The primary was originally a dry primary. Someone has plugged and removed the primary chain oil system.
I installed a new dry/wet clutch and filled the primary with oil. No leaks as the bike sits.

I took the bike for a short ride and there was primary oil everywhere. I can't tell where it's leaking from, but its definitely primary oil.

So my options are to remove the inner primary cover and find out where the leak is and seal it, or buy a belt primary system.

Is there a pro and con using a belt system? I'm considering the belt system pictured below.
Also, what's the difference between an 8mm tooth pitch and 11mm tooth pitch?

Thanks for you input.

 
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Old May 19, 2019 | 12:10 PM
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I had a Primo belt drive in my 1999 FXR3. The problems I encountered were heat. It would get too hot in the primary and the belts would shred. I went with the Baker 9 plate. Do you have a gaskets for the inspection plate, derby cover, and outer?
 
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Old May 19, 2019 | 12:14 PM
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Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but I think there are 3 oil lines connected to the primary. One drips oil on the primary chain, a second is used as a breather, and the third is the return back to the engine. You'll likely have to plug all 3 to seal off the primary. There are plenty of how-tos on the subject including a diagram.

For my money, I'd go back to stock. Others will tell you that sealed is better.

carl
 
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Old May 19, 2019 | 12:16 PM
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First, with that setup you should put just enough oil in the primary to touch the bottom of the clutch hub, no more maybe 1/3 to 1/2 bottle. If it's throwing oil its over filled first off and the inner primary seal is probably gone. looking at t ear down & reseal all round even if you do a belt. If it can get out means **** can get in too.

I've used 8 & 11mm belts systems on my shovels,11mm belts are cheaper to replace and I've modified mine so I can change it on the side of the road in 15 mins. and be gone. Personal choice really both perform the same. Belt means regular maintenance on your bike with old shovel style guts as the clutch bearings are not sealed you'll need to go in a grease them every couple thousand miles or so. Up side is less heat and vibration and most belt systems change the drive ratio a little so you'll drop a few RPM's at speed.
 
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Old May 19, 2019 | 12:18 PM
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I don't want to go back to the original primary oil system.
I hear too many weird stories of clutch debris being sucked back into the engine.
 
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Old May 19, 2019 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 1340fxrt
I don't want to go back to the original primary oil system.
I hear too many weird stories of clutch debris being sucked back into the engine.
If you do go with a wet primary, don't use a BDL compensator sprocket!! I've just had a hell of time yesterday pulling my primary apart and dealing with a failed comp.

But Twizted is right..probably too much oil in the primary.
 
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Old May 19, 2019 | 03:38 PM
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I just upgraded mine to a dry belt.

That being said - finding an appropriate method of cooling with minimal debris entering is important. Like I said in another post some washers and longer fasteners to space out the primary
cover would do you for all the cooling and airflow needed.

I called it an upgrade because it eliminates some problems and introduces others - but by and large it eliminates more than it causes provided you are willing to take care of ventilation of the primary, keep oil out of it and grease the starter jackshaft bushing in the cover every now and again.

In pure engineering terms - a large tooth belt pitch allows for the force to be distributed across a larger surface area than a smaller belt pitch, and same thing for the pulleys. That means it will less force per square unit of measure which translates to longer lasting parts.

Pros are: no more leaking - no more compensator issues - no more tension adjustments - no more oil change intervals - less rotating weight and therefore more power to the wheels - no need to worry enough oil dripping out and running your primary dry.

Cons are: gotta get the pulleys aligned (potential for issues if they are naturally a bit off) and rub the belt. gotta ventilate a bit. they are aluminum mostly which is obviously less strong than steel - will also need to do an new inner primary bearing since it won't be oiled anymore - new expense - will have to buy tools to remove race from shaft - additional expense.
 
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Old May 19, 2019 | 04:40 PM
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1/8" spacers on the inspection & derby covers gives plenty of circulation without letting a lot of road grit in, been running belts since the 70's . Or you can find a set of louvered covers if looks are a thing.
 
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Old May 19, 2019 | 06:15 PM
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Since it's an FXR it shakes like a ***** in church. I spaced out my outer primary when I had a belt drive..one on the screws came lose, the spacer bounced around the inner primary like a ping pong ball and that was the end of the primo belt drive for me. I live in Vegas, so heat is definitely an issue. They make vented primary covers for soft tails, but nothing for FXRs. You can get a vented inspection plate and derby cover, but I don't know if that will be enough.
 
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Old May 20, 2019 | 09:13 AM
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thanks for all the input !
 
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