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So I pulled the cover of the ignition sensor and found that it has been replaced with a drag specialties. The ignition module is still the stock one. I do see a still goo starting on the sensor. Now it's time to decide to change out the whole system since I plan on changing cams I might as well I think. Now time to decide which one.
So It never even dawned on my but my timing is pretty much fully advanced. I wonder if that's not haf the reason I was getting mid 20s for mpg. Granted most of it was interstate so that's 80 mph. So hopefully the new ignition system helps that.
Also I have been debating about going with adjustable pushrods with going with the ev13 cam. I'd imagine that with the adjustable vs set I'd get a little more out of the cam. A couple thousands is a a big difference. Not saying the set rods wouldn't use the full duration but if it opens 1.5 degrees soon and closes 1.5 degrees later. Just a late night thought. I probably won't be getting much done on the bike this weekend. Waiting on the pipes before I tear it down so I can see what it would take to have them fit. But I do have a spear house i need to build so that's the weekends plans. Plus then I'll have more storage for parts and hopefully dont have to worry about people knocking over my body parts that I have off like my gas tank. It's a good think I plan on painting the bike.
I used a Crane ignition system on my 1990 Glide, however I would follow suggestions from more recent converters to use a Dyna 2000 - experts will be along pdq with more specific model details! If your bike still has the stock module there are good reasons to replace it - the Dyna goes inside the cone and replaces both module and pick-up. To comply with EPA regulations the stock ignition modifies ignition timing away from optimum, so you should get a much sweeter running bike.
As for pushrods I don't believer there is any benefit of changing from the stock ones, they were fine with my EV27. We will happily help you spend your money on your bike (we are very practiced at that!), but there are worthwhile things and less important ones. Check you carb for the removal of the little idle screw blanking cover, so you can fine tune the idle mixture.
I used a Crane ignition system on my 1990 Glide, however I would follow suggestions from more recent converters to use a Dyna 2000 - experts will be along pdq with more specific model details! If your bike still has the stock module there are good reasons to replace it - the Dyna goes inside the cone and replaces both module and pick-up. To comply with EPA regulations the stock ignition modifies ignition timing away from optimum, so you should get a much sweeter running bike.
As for pushrods I don't believer there is any benefit of changing from the stock ones, they were fine with my EV27. We will happily help you spend your money on your bike (we are very practiced at that!), but there are worthwhile things and less important ones. Check you carb for the removal of the little idle screw blanking cover, so you can fine tune the idle mixture.
I was leaning towards the 2000. Seem to have pretty good results from what I can find here.
Sounds good. I wasnt sure with adding lift if added adjustable would help ot out or not. I have seen some mixed reviews about that.
the carb on the bike was chawas out to a s&a super b. So my low side isnt that great; but once shes gets going a little, she kicks. Just got to remember no hammer just roll. Difficult sometimes lol
Nice Bike! Looking forward to your progress. You may also want to consider the Ultima 53-644 ignition, its a copy of the Dynatec 2000. They work great and the price is right. Don't use the coil that comes with the kit though
Nice Bike! Looking forward to your progress. You may also want to consider the Ultima 53-644 ignition, its a copy of the Dynatec 2000. They work great and the price is right. Don't use the coil that comes with the kit though
the only differences that I have read is in the curves. the ultima has more aggressive curves if I remember correctly. I need to do a little more research on it.
How many miles are on it? Lifters are a 50K mile maintenance item. You have the "good" inner cam bearing already, so no need to replace it unless you really want to.
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