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I suggest you slow down, do the baby steps as suggested by Dr. Hess and Dan. They can only work with info that they get from you, and they are good at doing this.
The starter has never worked with this engine, so another thing must be determined...
Is the engine mechanically sound, can it be rotated?
should be, I can turn it by hand with the plugs out, but right now the jack shaft is removed so there is no resistance from the primary drive on the starter motor
OK, the resistance of the solenoid doesn't seem too far out of line, although that's 30 amps. Like I said, an ammeter in series would be helpful.
Put the volt meter across the battery, then push the start button. When your "breaker trips," what's the voltage across the battery?
I’ll get the anmeter reading tomorrow when I’m back with the bike, and I don’t believe the breakers to be tripping. I believe it was the built in breaker in my battery. I have a lithium smart battery so it looks to be a safety feature when the battery is shorted out to prevent it from becoming a homemade bomb. I put a stock HD battery in for the time being until I get this sorted out. With that being said the power is still being drawn or shorted since it does shut all of my lights down just the same, but they immediately power back on when the connection is broken.
Speaking with my buddy who’s a metric tech and refuses to learn or have anything to do with Harleys, he believes there is a power source shorting to ground based off the knowledge that the primary has power. So with that being said does anyone have a suggestion on what wires could distribute power to the main ground if I had improperly attached something
Lots of really good advice and patient help, but with 3 pages in 2 days.... for crying out loud, Lol
Been a very long day and I may have missed something trying to read thru it all, but have you disconnected the C terminal to load test the coil winding in the solenoid? (there's 2 sides of the winding)
Both sides of the solenoid coil winding somewhat ground thru the armature/brushes until the main contacts hit, then the pull-in side has (+) where it did have (-) and the other end of the winding supplies the ground. The "green wire" as everyone calls it feeds to the center of those windings and is the only (+) to the hold-in side of the solenoid. Hence the dreaded click of those new fangled starters when the windings go weak....
C terminal:
My other book isn't here and it'll gimme headache trying to type it all out. I'll post a photo tomorrow. Real simple test, just need 3 wires and a battery and disconnect everything on the starter except ground cable ....
PS....
I'm gonna assume you didn't break any insulators on re-assembly, and when you had the solenoid apart to rebuild, there's a ball on the end of the plunger return spring in the back of the main shaft, any chance you "misplaced" it during all that? If so, that'll cause all kinds of witches to appear... # 12
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