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Old Sep 17, 2020 | 03:18 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
There are too many people throwing suggestions at the op, his head must be spinning.

I`m going to step back.
my head is certainly spinning but I’m doing my best to sort through and try everything mentioned. Never know which piece of advice may solve the puzzle
 
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Old Sep 17, 2020 | 03:21 PM
  #122  
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I really appreciate the help this community is providing. Thank you all for your help and I look forward to letting you guys know what the issue is and getting back out on the road.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2020 | 03:29 PM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by Zdollar
I won’t be able to check until this evening or tomorrow, but I will get back to you. And no worries the little ball bearing is in there I kept real good track of it
Follow the page I posted carefully and to the letter, as well as putting juice straight to the motor itself while it's disconnected. Basically bench testing it still bolted to the bike....

Hopefully that will narrow down where the problem resides.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2020 | 07:25 PM
  #124  
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Well I think I’m onto something. I started disconnecting wires and grounds one by one and testing continuity after each one. It disappeared after this fuel gauge wire was removed leading from the main harness to the gauge. Makes sense since I had the tank on and off and unplugged that wire. Now to figure out where it’s grounding out
 
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Old Sep 17, 2020 | 07:42 PM
  #125  
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Well that was with the battery disconnected, now I’m getting just under 13 volts reading off the primary which I have traced back to the regulator/rectifier. When it’s unplugged it drops to 0.06v, and both prongs that lead to the stator but coming off the regulator read 12.07 volts.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 09:08 AM
  #126  
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There is absolutely no logic in the path you are taking by playing with continuity tests, you are going off on a wild goose chase.

I recommend that you take the bike to a reputable shop and have a mechanic fix the issue, it is obvious that we can`t help you solve the problem.

Good luck.

 
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 12:43 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
There is absolutely no logic in the path you are taking by playing with continuity tests, you are going off on a wild goose chase.

I recommend that you take the bike to a reputable shop and have a mechanic fix the issue, it is obvious that we can`t help you solve the problem.

Good luck.
my thought process was tracking down why my primary had 12v power, in which I found one short, and my regulator needing to be replaced according to the manuals bleed test. I’m not throwing in the towel yet still have a handful of tests to go back and run
 
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 12:58 PM
  #128  
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We have some terminology issues. Primaries don't have electrical power. They are grounded. You can't do a proper electrical system check without the bike running. You can check for a grounded stator, but that's about it. And that would not be causing your other issues. Do as suggested above and take the heavy cable off between the solenoid and the starter motor and then see what happens when you push the start button. If it is still weird, then pull the battery cable off the solenoid and try again.

Harbor Freight sells a DVM with a clamp on DC ammeter in it. Pretty high tech, and I have no idea how they are doing that, but it works great and I use it all the time for things like how much current is that starter pulling or how much is my alternator charging after a startup. It's not cheap, and it is their top of the line unit, but still, at the $100 range, it is a bargain.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 01:34 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
We have some terminology issues. Primaries don't have electrical power. They are grounded. You can't do a proper electrical system check without the bike running. You can check for a grounded stator, but that's about it. And that would not be causing your other issues. Do as suggested above and take the heavy cable off between the solenoid and the starter motor and then see what happens when you push the start button. If it is still weird, then pull the battery cable off the solenoid and try again.

Harbor Freight sells a DVM with a clamp on DC ammeter in it. Pretty high tech, and I have no idea how they are doing that, but it works great and I use it all the time for things like how much current is that starter pulling or how much is my alternator charging after a startup. It's not cheap, and it is their top of the line unit, but still, at the $100 range, it is a bargain.
Ill go pick up that DVM today, and I’m aware primaries are supposed to be a ground, when I put the positive end of my multimeter on the primary with it set to Voltage, and the negative on the negative battery terminal, it read 12.07 V. Correct me if I’m wrong but that’s a problem. As for the other tests Ill get back to you with the results this afternoon
 
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 01:40 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
Harbor Freight sells a DVM with a clamp on DC ammeter in it. Pretty high tech, and I have no idea how they are doing that, but it works great and I use it all the time for things like how much current is that starter pulling or how much is my alternator charging after a startup. It's not cheap, and it is their top of the line unit, but still, at the $100 range, it is a bargain.
is this the one you’re talking about?

https://www.harborfreight.com/cm1000...ter-64017.html

 
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