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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 02:11 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by Zdollar
........... when I put the positive end of my multimeter on the primary with it set to Voltage, and the negative on the negative battery terminal, it read 12.07 V. Correct me if I’m wrong but that’s a problem.....
Forget dropping $100. an another meter for now, you have other (and more simple problems)

The only way you can get that reading is if the engine/trans/inner assembly is not properly grounded... period!

You need to go back over your ground connections (with the positive disconnected) and I'm not familiar with the exact locations on the model, but it's something like - battery (-) to starter mounting bolt, another cable or strap from inner primary to frame. They HAVE to be clean and tight.

When you get all in order and if you get a spark reconnecting the battery terminal, disconnect the main cable from the starter and try again.
 

Last edited by t150vej; Sep 18, 2020 at 02:16 PM.
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 02:16 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by t150vej
Forget dropping $100. an another meter for now, you have other (and more simple problems)

The only way you can get that reading is if the engine/trans/inner assembly is not properly grounded... period!

You need to go back over your ground connections (with the positive disconnected) and I'm not familiar with the exact locations on the model, but it's something like - battery (-) to starter mounting bolt, another cable or strap from inner primary to frame.

When you get all in order and if you get a spark reconnecting the battery terminal, disconnect the main cable from the starter and try again.
on the fxr is from battery to inner primary and then inner primary to frame. I’ve checked these connections a few times now
 
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 02:34 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by Zdollar
on the fxr is from battery to inner primary and then inner primary to frame. I’ve checked these connections a few times now
I didn't go back to look... OK, '90 FXR. I know exactly where they are, or at least are supposed to be.

Still, no way you can get a voltage reading on the engine/trans/inner from the battery negative unless the assembly is not grounded. Trust me!

Checking continuity won't get you where you need be on those connections. You can get a good, low ohm reading but when under load, they will go away.

It could be a bad cable, rather than a bad connection. They can and will break/corrode inside the insulation, usually at or near an end terminal. Heck, your entire problem could simply be a bad cable and nothing more.

If you have some jumper cables, connect one of them from the battery negative to somewhere on the engine (where ever you can) or a heavy wire from a bolt to the battery negative just to check. Be aware, anything smaller than a 8 gauge will get real hot, real quick if you operate the starter.

Try that..........
 
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 02:37 PM
  #134  
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Yes, that's the meter I am talking about. It's really nice. The DC amp meter is just so handy to have. Like, how much is your car alternator charging? Clamp it around the negative battery cable and measure the current flow. How much current is that starter drawing? Clamp it around the cable and crank it. It has an Inrush setting so you can see the max at start too. Really nice. Not saying you necessarily need it now, but it is very hand to have.

Yeah, the inner primary should not read +12v. Sounds like the ground is missing. Disconnect the battery. Measure the resistance between the negative battery cable and the primary. Should be very low.
 

Last edited by Dr.Hess; Sep 18, 2020 at 02:44 PM.
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 02:50 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
Yeah, the inner primary should not read +12v. Sounds like the ground is missing. Disconnect the battery. Measure the resistance between the negative battery cable and the primary. Should be very low.
Oops, he may have had the negative disconnected from the bat when he got that reading. That would show (+) voltage from the bat neg to any (normally) grounded item. Oh well...

I advised against that meter mainly out of envy - I don't have one ... yet.

 
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 03:49 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
Yes, that's the meter I am talking about. It's really nice. The DC amp meter is just so handy to have. Like, how much is your car alternator charging? Clamp it around the negative battery cable and measure the current flow. How much current is that starter drawing? Clamp it around the cable and crank it. It has an Inrush setting so you can see the max at start too. Really nice. Not saying you necessarily need it now, but it is very hand to have.

Yeah, the inner primary should not read +12v. Sounds like the ground is missing. Disconnect the battery. Measure the resistance between the negative battery cable and the primary. Should be very low.
my bad battery negative was disconnected, and it’s reading 0.03 ohms(after factoring in the resistance of my leads)

I also am known to have a spending problem when it comes to my bikes and tools, needless to say I just got home from harbor freight and now I gotta learn how to use this thing
 
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 04:01 PM
  #137  
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It appears there’s a new problem now, something drained my battery down to 0.2 Volts overnight, and no the key was not in the bike
 
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 04:06 PM
  #138  
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I also found this green wire everyone’s been talking about underneath some electrical tape
 
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 04:12 PM
  #139  
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That could be your neutral indicator wire.
But one thing at a time.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 08:49 AM
  #140  
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I think post #120 tells us what we need to know.

Solenoid wire disconnected, start button pressed, relay clicks (normal)

Solenoid wire connected, start button pressed, bike power drops.

Defect in starter solenoid body or motor, or the battery has no poop.
 
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