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Way back when the OP stated that his terminal 30. on the relay, gets power from the orange wire off the ignition switch.. This is wrong and will draw on the lighting system. I think his battery is week and the main breaker is not tripping. Also when it comes to continuity between the positive battery cable and the primary case with the ignition on is because it is a completed circuit... Everything goes back to ground. The difference being 0 ohms a direct short somewhere or 5000 ohms that will not short but will still sound the meter because it's still continuity...
You need to take terminal 30 and connect it to the proper relay..
You also need to tell us how many ohm's you are reading when doing the continuity test previously mentioned..
AND.... I would like to see a picture of the meter on dc volts, connected to both terminals on the battery with all wiring connected to where it should be and the hit the start button.. I would like to know what the voltage drops to....
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Sep 17, 2020 at 06:37 AM.
There are too many people throwing suggestions at the op, his head must be spinning.
I`m going to step back.
Good Call... I'm so confused I still don't know if a Known Good battery was tried??
What happened between then and now... IDK, and prolly won't find out
see ya at the Watering Hole!!!!
Yes, Dan, I concur. We are all basically saying the same thing. I nominate 98HRFB to drive.
I'll summarize:
Push start button and everything shuts off.
New-fangled lithium battery.
"Rebuilt" solenoid.
It appears that the factory 30 amp breaker is not tripping, but an internal battery circuit breaker in the new-fangled lithium battery.
The solenoid pull in coil itself appears to be intact.
Potential issues to track down:
Is the short in the solenoid itself?
Is the short in the starter itself?
Is the short in the wire between the solenoid and the starter?
I`m sure if any of us had the bike in front of us we could solve the issue in about 5 minutes, but sometimes it becomes too confusing when you are trying to do it from a distance.
I'm sure the OPs frustrated more than we are. But I think Dr Hess was correct on proper procedures and the first thing he/we need to do is put a voltmeter on that battery and see what the voltage is actually dropping to.. Without that information the first basic step it's very difficult to really diagnose anything in here...
Again I reiterate OP, hang in there. I'm sure all this from the new motor to not starting to wiring switches controls being replaced/upgraded, that that's a recipe for a lot of issues.. So just hold your anxieties and we'll get you through this..
If nothing else, this thread should stand as a testament to forum users willingness to help, provided the OP follows up on suggestions.....
But without doing the test shown in this linked photo, then putting voltage with a heavy cable directly to the starter motor to check it for a short, and confirming those tests pass, all the other mentoned tests are basically n/a.
Lots of really good advice and patient help, but with 3 pages in 2 days.... for crying out loud, Lol
Been a very long day and I may have missed something trying to read thru it all, but have you disconnected the C terminal to load test the coil winding in the solenoid? (there's 2 sides of the winding)
Both sides of the solenoid coil winding somewhat ground thru the armature/brushes until the main contacts hit, then the pull-in side has (+) where it did have (-) and the other end of the winding supplies the ground. The "green wire" as everyone calls it feeds to the center of those windings and is the only (+) to the hold-in side of the solenoid. Hence the dreaded click of those new fangled starters when the windings go weak....
C terminal:
My other book isn't here and it'll gimme headache trying to type it all out. I'll post a photo tomorrow. Real simple test, just need 3 wires and a battery and disconnect everything on the starter except ground cable ....
PS....
I'm gonna assume you didn't break any insulators on re-assembly, and when you had the solenoid apart to rebuild, there's a ball on the end of the plunger return spring in the back of the main shaft, any chance you "misplaced" it during all that? If so, that'll cause all kinds of witches to appear... # 12
I wont be able to check until this evening or tomorrow, but I will get back to you. And no worries the little ball bearing is in there I kept real good track of it
You say when you disconnect the green wire from the starter solenoid, and press the start button, the relay clicks.
Does the breaker trip?
Now connect the green wire, press the start button, what happens?
breaker doesnt trip, and when I plug it back in and press the button all power is drawn killing the lights but it goes on as soon as I stop pressing the button telling me the breaker isnt tripping
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