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Old Sep 16, 2020 | 01:26 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
Ya think?

Now tell us, has the electrical system worked properly since the new switches were installed?
it has worked with the new switches, but not for long
 
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Old Sep 16, 2020 | 01:28 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
As you said most likely but I just wanted to be sure.
It could have been he had a different problem and the current one only occurred after the rebuild.
Anything’s possible, but I would like to rule out everything and anything before jumping to conclusions and replacing my starter
 
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Old Sep 16, 2020 | 01:30 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
Don`t say continuity, it may not mean the same thing to you as it does to someone else.

Tell us exactly what you touched the voltmeter positive probe to, and exactly what you touched the voltmeter negative probe to, and what were the ohms read.
I’ve checked a few spots, but the initial one would be I put my multimeter to the continuity setting, where it beeps, and I touched the positive probe to the positive terminal of the battery, and the negative probe to the inner primary, which is what the starter grounds off to. I was attempting to see if the inner primary has power going to it that would be shorting out the starter motor, and if so I would trace where it’s coming from and fix the connection or whatever the issue is. At least that’s how i would like it to work out 😂
 
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Old Sep 16, 2020 | 01:31 PM
  #84  
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If the solenoid coil resistance was 0 ohms, not 0K or 0 on the 10K, but 0 on the lowest scale of a decent DVM, then the solenoid is bad or otherwise shorting out.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2020 | 01:34 PM
  #85  
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Damn and while I’m realizing I’ve left out some important information here’s some more. All of this started happening after swapping another motor into my bike. Old motor lost all compression in cylinder 1, my buddy had a motor that was rebuilt around a year ago and never installed so I took it off his hands instead of rebuilding mine since it made more financial sense.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2020 | 01:34 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by Zdollar
Anything’s possible, but I would like to rule out everything and anything before jumping to conclusions and replacing my starter
You would be the only person who could answer the question.
What was the original reason you decided to rebuild the solenoid?
 
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Old Sep 16, 2020 | 01:37 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
If the solenoid coil resistance was 0 ohms, not 0K or 0 on the 10K, but 0 on the lowest scale of a decent DVM, then the solenoid is bad or otherwise shorting out.
then let’s make sure I performed your test right, what am I supposed to be testing the resistance on

 
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Old Sep 16, 2020 | 01:38 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
You would be the only person who could answer the question.
What was the original reason you decided to rebuild the solenoid?
I rebuilt the solenoid due to the same symptoms I’m experiencing now, when the solenoid engages, my bike loses all power for a few seconds then reboots
 
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Old Sep 16, 2020 | 01:39 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by Zdollar
it has worked with the new switches, but not for long
I think you need to go back over your switch install as you could have pinched a wire that took just a bit of time to wear through.

FWIW when something goes wrong with my bike right after I changed something on it the cause is usually something I did.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2020 | 01:42 PM
  #90  
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Okay I just plugged it back in and pressed the handlebar start button, and everything worked. It pushed out and spun. Now it’s right back to the same problem
 
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