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I got the inner primary off this morning. It looks like all the bolts had silicone on them. Also, there was quite a bit of silicone on the back around the primary seal. The Indy pressed in the new Baker bearing and seals. Below are pictures of the old bearing and seals. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the bearing race off and the sprocket / pulley off to replace the transmission seal. Does it look like the bearing race "walked"? I haven't taken any measurements.
Old primary seal Old primary bearing Inner primary cleanup Bearing race
Hard to tell if the bearing walked due to the way the shadow perfectly covering the gap between the race and main drive gear. Sometimes they "walk out". The bigger concern is with them walking in: because when the the race "walks in" it damages the mainshaft 5th gear oil seal, causing a leak, and it's difficult to get the puller on the race to remove because there is no gap. The gap should be .100-.125 between the main drive gear and the race. "walking out" can create a primary oil leak because the seal lip no longer rides on race.
I'm not sure why whoever was there before you slathered on so much sealant around the outer edge of the inner primary seal...check for gouges on the outer seal surface of the inner primary. Maybe they were trying to "fix" a defect, who knows. Not big fan of that clear silicone sealer either. You want "acid free" automotive sealer. I have seen guys use a little sealant on the seal AFTER it is installed on the outer surface of the seal where it presses and meets the machined seal bore (even seen them use blue loctite), but usually none of that is needed.
I assume you have the sprocket nut socket, and a means to lock the pully/sprocket to remove the nut? That nut is left hand threads to righty loosey, lefty tighty. If you don't have the pulley locking tool, you can lock the the pulley/sprocket by removing the trans top over, remove the shift drum and shifter dogs and shift dog shaft, then engage a couple of the gears together. It will lock the pulley/shaft dead solid do you can turn that big nut. That is was the factory method before they came out with the sprocket/pulley locking tool. Not that hard to do, just takes a little more time and probably need to replace the trans top cover gaskets. Go with the foamette style for replacement.
Did you clean up the pulley/sprocket before taking that pic? The reason I ask is: the 5th gear mainshaft oil seal (also called wedding band seal) can leak TRANS fluid and it looks like yours is not leaking. If it was, you would see streaks coming from that seal area (like a star) from trans fluid being flung off of it from centrifugal force. The streaks would be on the pulley nut. That is a clear indicator of a 5th gear mainshaft oil seal leak. See pic below (stolen from LQQk_Out):
Can you post a pic of what you mean by "It looks like all the bolts had silicone on them". You don't need to put silicone on the threads of the bolts. That is a bad idea and can cause problems. The female bolt holes need to be clean and free from oil, dirt, and sealer. If they did have silicone on the threads, then that all has to be cleaned out of the female threads before reassembly. Silicone sealer only goes in the areas I described earlier (red and yellow circles on earlier pic). Some will put a little silicone on the under side of the bolt locking tabs and bolt heads during reassembly, but really not needed when you think about the job the sealant does at those red circles. No primary oil can get out if bead of sealant circles those bolt holes. The locking tabs can probably be re-used.
I didn't notice any gouges or damage in general to the seal surfaces. I have a special pulley socket that I used last year on my Sportster so I'm assuming it will work on the Dyna pulley. I think it's 2 1/4 in. I did not cleanup the transmission surfaces. I planned on changing the transmission and shifter seals since in there. I've read on here that the pulley spacer should be changed. The parts catalog shows several different sizes so I'll have to measure the thickness after it's removed. Below shows some bolts with the silicone. I plan on following what you wrote up and apply the thread sealer to the bolts.
You're right about the socket.. I obviously need at least a 5 inch deep socket which I do not have. The socket I used on the Sportster is shallow. Based on what you stated earlier, I don't think I have a transmission seal leak so I'm debating whether to leave it as is. The bearing race came off without a problem. The shaft looks good.
Yes, it looks nice and clean. Your call on leaving it as is. I was going to say you could button it all back up and do it again this winter, but I see your from Texas. I don't think you guys get winter?
The socket you need is 1-7/8 and it is a deep one. Some will buy a regular 1-7/8 socket, then cut it, then weld an extension pipe in between the two pieces and now you have an extended or deep socket. Lots of threads on how to make one if you have the capabilities to cut and weld. If you do make your own, get a 6 sided socket if you can find one. Before you move on, check that the pulley is on tight, with no wobble, and no play in the shaft/bearing behind the pulley (like 98hotrodfatboy previously mentioned).
Make a thread chaser out of a spare bolt to clean out the female bolt holes. Could be something as simple as filing a "V" notch in a spare bolt and threading it in (like a tap), to clean out any junk in the threads. Take a wire wheel (or brush) to all of the bolts to clean the sealer off of those also. Spray the female threaded holes and the bolts with brake clean after everything has been wire brushed and cleaned out. Then spray that out with compressed air. I prefer a chaser over a tap, as the tap can get you in trouble if not careful.
Forgot to mention, if those two socket cap bolts in your pic are the two starter bolts, there is no need for silicone sealer on those. Just a small drop of loctite is fine.
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