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If I go down that road.. Can this Jims socket be used with an impact gun to take off the pulley? And to re-install the pulley will having the bike in 5th gear and someone applying the rear brake be sufficient when torquing it down? Or do I need to buy the special thingamajig?
If I go down that road.. Can this Jims socket be used with an impact gun to take off the pulley? And to re-install the pulley will having the bike in 5th gear and someone applying the rear brake be sufficient when torquing it down? Or do I need to buy the special thingamajig?
That's the right socket. I've never had to use an impact wrench to get the nut off. They haven't been tight enough.
When it comes to the seals on the left side of the transmission, I replace all the seals if the inner primary cover is off.
Those seals don`t have a lot of miles on them, but they may be the 27 year old originals.
If OP can verify that the bike has a primary leak only, then IMO, I would stop, put it all back together, enjoy the bike, and accumulate some more tools.
If I was in there that far, I would do the seal... Also check the splines, they have been known to go bad.. Here's the socket I made... Cheap socket 3/4"drive cut in half with schedule 80, 2" black pipe welded in. An impact if needed to take it off but would not use to put back on. Take the top cover off the trans to put it into 2 gears. This will lock the trans so you can properly torque the 5th gear pulley nut.. Or use the 2 people method in4th gear with brake applied.. I prefer removing the top cover method.
If OP can verify that the bike has a primary leak only, then IMO, I would stop, put it all back together, enjoy the bike, and accumulate some more tools.
Attempt #1 did not work out so well.. It was a bitch lining up the plate with the engine and transmission after loosening the mounts! I should of taken the advice concerning dry runs. I guess in theory the plate should line up / slide in place without any rubber mallet persuasion.
You can also use headless bolts as a guide to slide it in. Also have to remove the bolt at the rear exhaust mount bracket. It attaches the rear pipe to the transmission and that will make it difficult to align until that exhaust bracket is free.
With the front and rear rubber mount bolts to frame loose, and the rear exhaust bracket disconnected (one bolt), you still need to loosen the trans to engine bolts that sit right in between the engine and trans. It's two bolts that use a 9/16 inch wrench and you need to remove one rubber hose from the oil pump to gain easy access on the right side. The left side is a piece of cake to get at. The only tool I found to reach/work is a box end wrench. You don't have clearance for a socket. I also disconnected the top engine mount alignment dog bone which requires the tank to be removed. Once all that is free, you can easily move the engine or the trans around for the best alignment to the inner primary.
However, it sounds like you got it all lined up, but double check around the area of the big O-ring at the stator area. The inner primary cover to engine should be even all the way around it (or pretty close to it). It other words even amounts of metal around that ringed area if that makes sense. See pic below, yellow shows the round metal lip on the engine that the inner primary should be pretty equal all the way around when things are aligned properly at the engine. There has been some guys experience a problem with the metal lip at the big O-ring breaking off of the engine, and it's not an easy fix. That is the only reason I mention it. Not sure if that issue is caused by misalignment, but having it evenly aligned as close to perfect as possible can't hurt.
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