Oh, I didn't see that the main gear splines were damaged, well then I guess its a perfect time for an upgrade, now that I look at the pic closer, I see! lol, getting old I guess I need stronger glasses!

 

I'm glad you said that. I was scratching my head on this last night, and the one thing I kept going back to is that after all this tearing apart, I still wasn't sure where the actual leak was coming from. I'd hate to go through all this and not actually fix the leak. That idea of yours makes sense. The fact that a fair amount of fluid came out when I pulled the main seal sort of confirms it. The trans had emptied down to the bottom edge of the ID of the seal. When I pulled it, the trans dumped the rest, down to the OD of the seal.

Really appreciate everyone's thoughts on this. Very helpful. I think I've almost got a plan together.

Here's a question: Should I get rid of the OEM style roller bearing on the inner primary and go to a Baker style sealed bearing?

The plan at the moment is to go to the '94+ version of the spacer/pulley/seal, as well as the hot-rod pulley that 1997bagger linked. That looks good.

Not sure on the main drive gear. The part numbers are confusing me. This one is listed as a direct replacement for 35029-85A, but Dennis Kirk says it doesn't fit.



This one is said to fit:



They look like the same thing. Makes me think they are, and it's just some confusion on the fitment tables I'm seeing. But I also wonder if there is some subtle difference that I need to be aware of.

I'm also not clear on whether or not it makes sense to get a new fifth gear. I'm going to put that on hold until I open up the case and see how things look. Same thing with the shifter pawl. Part of me is thinking that should go on the "may as well" list.

I'm going to head down to HD later today to see what I can get from them.

 

Call up Andrews and ask them which gear you need. .

 

The correct HD part number for the Main Drive Gear is 35029-85A.

Andrews part number is 296585.

Don`t get a gear for `91 or later, they will not work in a `90 transmission.

There are differences, but they all look the same.

`91 and later use a different size internal needle bearing, `94 and later use different gear tooth profile.

 

I'm so sorry for your problem, Omaha. I suffered a similar problem with my Honda africa twin. The Loctite that the colleague refers to is the 660, it has helped me with my problem, it has been on for a year and it holds up well. However, since you have the primary removed I think it is better to put the new gear.

 

As far as the baker inner primary bearing, I don't know, never used one myself, but I've heard both good and bad about them???

 

The more I think about that, the less I think I'm going that direction.

I get the advantages, but the part I don't like is that with that design, the mainshaft itself becomes the sealing surface on the inner primary oil seal. That doesn't seem like a good, long term design. Plus, assuming I keep the stock mainshaft (no reason at the moment to think I won't), it will have had the factory inner race both pressed on and pulled off, which means it could have some fine scoring right where it needs to seal.

I think I'm better off getting a new race and a new seal, but sticking with the factory design.

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Just got off the phone with Gary at Andrews. He says I need a 296585 main drive gear, and that I won't need to replace my fifth gear. According to Gary, the difference between the 296585 and the other one is that the mainshaft on '91+ is five thou narrower than on the '90. Got that on order.

Some smart cookies around here.

The Evolution Industries guys don't have a phone number, so I sent a contact form, Hopefully will hear back from them pronto.

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So far, no one has mentioned the final drive belt. Bike has 45k on it. Unless someone tells me I'm being stupid, my plan was to just keep the original belt. Am I being stupid?

 

That's right Ohama you have the 1990 one year bastard splined shaft

 

45,000 is a fair amount, but I'm not going to tell you your stupid, but you know how much work it is to change later??

 

While it's all loose put a chalk or paint mark on a tooth and walk the belt around .
If ya find nothing wrong I'd run it. They as a rule are plenty tuff

WP