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Never did get to the HD dealer yesterday. Going to try to get there after work today.
Trying to think of what all I should get from them:
The for sure stuff is:
- Transmission main seal
- '93+ style pulley spacer
- Trans quad seal
- Inner primary seal
- Ratchet pawl seal
- Both right side transmission gaskets
- Crank case to inner primary bigazz o-ring.
- Fresh locktabs for the inner primary bolts
(I already verified that the new Andrews came with the "wedding ring" pre-installed.
The not sure but think I should list is:
- Transmission main gear bearing - I want to replace this for sure, right?
- Shifter pawl spring - Seems like cheap insurance to replace it when the transmission is apart.
- Inner primary bearing and race - There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with what I've got now. Think it's worth replacing them "just because"?
*****
One thing I haven't mentioned on this project yet: When I went to drain the primary, I got almost nothing out of it. Like maybe four or six ounces of fluid at most.
That didn't seem good. The last time I was in there was when I installed the Hayden that THC sent me. My normal procedure is to dump a quart of ATF into the primary. I guess it's possible that I had a brain fart and left it dry, but it wasn't really dry. (Which is to say, if I plain forgot to add fluid, I don't think I'd have four to six ounces coming out after 3k miles.)
So I guess I'm wondering where the fluid went. Is it possible that the primary bearing seal got wazzed up in all this and the fluid escaped from there? Any chance it migrated into the crankcase? Should I go ahead and replace the engine crankshaft seal while I'm in there?
Transmission top cover gasket
Transmission main bearing
Inner primary seal and new inner race for the primary bearing (don't re-use one that's been pulled) bearing is less than the race, so get it too.
Crank main seal AND spacer it rides on. (They usually push oil into the primary, but they can most certainly suck primary fluid back into the crank case - don't ask me how I know)
Change the pawl spring if you want to, but if there are no rub marks on the original, it's probably as good as what you will buy... just a how lucky do you feel thing.
Don't forget to round off the metal on the shift pawl where the spring makes contact on the metal edge. That 90 degree edge is what cuts into the shift pawl spring with vibration and time. Creates a weak spot on the spring and then the spring snaps. We all know what happens next.
When changing out the spring, just rounding off that edge with a file will help.
I think these guys have it covered, I cant think of anything to add to the list, you did mention '93+ style pulley spacer, so your upgrading your sprocket? I'm just asking because the newer spacer will not space your original style sprocket far enough away from the transmission
