Actually did that today already. Prior research says it should center itself, and travel in each direction should be equal? It seems to do that. Both springs are in tact as well. Although the bearings on the shifter cam shaft do seem to have excessive slop to me. But I did not notice this before removing it. I did spec out the thrust washer wear and that was fine.

Been hearing it may not be a bad idea to upgrade to a later model shift cam assy? But don't want to jump the gun. Still a bit suspect on gear wear. Hearing people have swapped out worn 5spd gear sets or shafts with Andrews and have seen improvements all the way around.

 

"Prior research says it should center itself, and travel in each direction should be equal?"

Yes, but take the measurements/check it while in 3rd gear.

"Been hearing it may not be a bad idea to upgrade to a later model shift cam assy?"

Yes, it's an improvement. It gives you a different feel, but yes it's an improvement. It kind of "takes the art away" in shifting. It changes it to a "just shift sort of thing". I would not make the change unless you have to pull the trap door/gearset. If you do, then you need the following:

Shifter pawl mechanism #34972-02
Shift drum #33383-02
Shift shaft spacer sleeve (replaces the old one and is longer) part #34979-00
Right side cover gaskets.
Centering pin (optional) 34978-00a
shifter shaft seal and new snap ring.

You need a way to drive the old shift shaft spacer sleeve out and drive the new one in without damaging, or cut a 0.25 spacer from a new shift shaft spacer sleeve, clean it up and install on the shifter shaft just prior to installing it on the trans. Centering pin is optional and can use the old one. You can still use the old centering pin to fine tune (the new centering pin does not fine tune the pawl) but you need to keep the offset cam of the old centering pin on the lower portion of between 3:00 and 9:00 on a clock face (bottom half) a opposed to top half of clock face could reduce shifter pawl travel. You also want to thread the old style offset pin in to far as that will reduce travel also. While installing the centering pin (with the trans top cover off) you will easily see what I am talking about as far as depth and clock position of the centering pin.

Also take note of a weld on the shifter mechanism. It is weld where the shifter shaft meets the shifter arm. The weld on some can be a little proud and it comes very close to contacting the countershaft gear. So if you buy a used part, check that weld and/or dry fit and check for contact. Mine was close but did not need filing/grinding. Remember the shifter shaft is 0.25" longer in the newer style so it brings it closer to the countershaft gear (the side of the gear).

Lastly, you may or may not have an issue with the neutral indicator. The new drum could cause the light to be on all the time, off when in neutral, or on in certain gears, etc. I had to do a work around on my dyna to make it work properly. No big deal, just took a little time and fiddling.

Here is a link:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/prima...ring-swap.html

 

Great info. Thank you very much for sharing. It will prove invaluable should I opt to upgrade.

At this point I am hopeful its a pulley problem. I have seen a few options for replacements on those. Stock steel OEM, aftermarket steel, or aluminum. Aluminum would be lighter, but would it hold up to the load?

Recommendations for a guy who mostly rides fully loaded with wife in tow? I was starting to consider a slight change on the pulley size. Nothing dramatic. The stocker is 32T, a 31T would give a little more pull off the line which I think could help ease the stress on pulley? But would this raise the rpms even more on hwys? Don't want that.

Or a 33T which would help with high rpms a bit on hwy. But might require a dif belt? Already purchased the stock length belt. Can't afford another one, maybe jumped the gun there.

I know its debatable. But now is the time for that consideration. May just keep it simple and stick with the stock 32T, so as to not introduce what could be undesirable results.

 

Stick with an OEM steel pulley, it will hold up much better than aluminum.

 

I went w/an Andrews 33 t not really satisfying. Don't know if you'll need to put a bigger belt for a 34 t? Others may chime in to verify.

 

This is tempting. Just under 15k mi for about $250. Supposedly only pulled to upgrade to a 6 speed. Can someone explain to me why they call it the Trap Door?

 

I went with a 34T on my '93 FXDL. Didn't need another belt.

 

I did this when my Jim's 6 speed gear set ate a flimsy gear dog and I had to replace the gearset parts.
I have a spare 5 speed gearset and a new 6 speed gearset kit for the 98RK if I ever move it away from stock(ish) EFI to carb'd/cammed setup. Curse of the parts collector..LOL.

Griz

 

That's a gear set with the trap door. The trap door is only the plate for the bearings for the counter shaft and main shaft...

 

If you use that gearset you should also use the shift pawl and shift drum that are with it, they are the late model hardware.

You will have to either replace the shifter shaft bushing in the transmission case or use a spacer.

Also, when you reassemble, if you are still running the original transmission sprocket you should replace it with the upgraded sprocket, spacer, and lock setup (these parts came out in mid `95).

The parts may still be available as a kit, HD part number 40210-85D.

Individual Part Numbers:

Sprocket (pulley) 40250-94C

Spacer 33344-94

Nut 35211-91B

Lock plate 40251-92A

Screw (2) 3594

Oil Seal 12067B

Quad Seal 11165

Oil Seal, main drive gear 12035B