Collecting parts & tools for top end rebuild
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 820
From: Moneta, Virginia
Collecting parts & tools for top end rebuild
1997 FLHR, 105k, no weeps, seeps or leaks. She uses a bit of oil, about 1/2 quart every 5000 miles.
Im figuring on new:
Johnson Hylift lifters
Kyoto cam bearing
Hayden the oil fix
Id like input on what brand pistons & rings and any special tools needed.
Im figuring on just honing the cylinders. Is there a preferred type or brand of honing tool for this?
Preferred gasket kit Cometic? HD? James?
Is it necessary to have the cylinder bases trued when using the Hayden oil fix?
I have stock push rods and an Andrews EV13 cam should I replace the cam or only replace it, if it shows pitting or unusual wear?
I replaced the valve cover gaskets earlier this year, I removed and inspected the lifters, cam and pushrods at that time they all looked to be in great shape, Im assuming they will still look good 5k later.
What about the heads? I dont know what to measure or look for to evaluate the valves & springs?
I occasionally get oil spitting out through the air cleaner, is there a fix for this while Im in there?
I have zero issues with this engine, the valve train is quiet, I just want to freshen her up and Im not trying to increase performance.
I wonder if Id be better served by sending the cylinders and heads off to someone and have them do their thing, so its just an assembly job on my end.
Im figuring on new:
Johnson Hylift lifters
Kyoto cam bearing
Hayden the oil fix
Id like input on what brand pistons & rings and any special tools needed.
Im figuring on just honing the cylinders. Is there a preferred type or brand of honing tool for this?
Preferred gasket kit Cometic? HD? James?
Is it necessary to have the cylinder bases trued when using the Hayden oil fix?
I have stock push rods and an Andrews EV13 cam should I replace the cam or only replace it, if it shows pitting or unusual wear?
I replaced the valve cover gaskets earlier this year, I removed and inspected the lifters, cam and pushrods at that time they all looked to be in great shape, Im assuming they will still look good 5k later.
What about the heads? I dont know what to measure or look for to evaluate the valves & springs?
I occasionally get oil spitting out through the air cleaner, is there a fix for this while Im in there?
I have zero issues with this engine, the valve train is quiet, I just want to freshen her up and Im not trying to increase performance.
I wonder if Id be better served by sending the cylinders and heads off to someone and have them do their thing, so its just an assembly job on my end.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 933
From: Long Island
I would say to leave the top end alone unless you have issues like base leaks or piston slap.Maybe a lifter change if you’ve got 30-35k on them.If and when it does leak,then I’d tear into it.Let it warm up to help keep them from leaking.Just my .02
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 820
From: Moneta, Virginia
Originally Posted by NORTY FLATZ;[url=tel:20276055
20276055[/url]]Based on your questions, you could use an FSM.
I have a FSM, my questions arent about how to take it apart or put it back together, Im inquiring about parts selection and preferred tools.
That said, if you're bound and determined to get in there, comments in red, just one idiot's opinions:
Johnson Hylift lifters - Fine choice
Kyoto cam bearing - Fine choice. Personally, if the ICB has already been replaced at some point with the full complement version, I wouldn't bother replacing it again. I'm probably in the minority with that opinion.
Hayden the oil fix - Not needed
Id like input on what brand pistons & rings - Wiseco
and any special tools needed. - Depending on how it goes, you might find yourself wanting a wrist pin puller to get the old ones out. And some files for setting ring gap.
Im figuring on just honing the cylinders. Is there a preferred type or brand of honing tool for this? - I'd hold off until disassembly before making any decisions here. Same with the pistons. Depending on the condition of the jugs, you may end up wanting to go 10 over or something.
Preferred gasket kit Cometic? HD? James? - Personally, I'd say Cometic. Others say James.
Is it necessary to have the cylinder bases trued when using the Hayden oil fix? - I would (and to reiterate, I don't see the benefit of the Hayden once you've gone to a modern, steel base gasket.
I have stock push rods and an Andrews EV13 cam should I replace the cam or only replace it, if it shows pitting or unusual wear? - If you don't care about the expense, go for it. If this was my bike, and if the cam had more than 50k miles on it, I'd probably replace it just to be safe.
I replaced the valve cover gaskets earlier this year, I removed and inspected the lifters, cam and pushrods at that time they all looked to be in great shape, Im assuming they will still look good 5k later. - Probably will.
What about the heads? I dont know what to measure or look for to evaluate the valves & springs? - At 105k, if you're going through all this, I'd go ahead and send them out for fresh seats and guides, and maybe valves and springs depending on what the machine shop finds. But based on your introductory comments, they sound fine. Do a compression test before teardown.
I occasionally get oil spitting out through the air cleaner, is there a fix for this while Im in there? - Common issue. There are a number of solutions for routing the crankcase ports away from the carb. But you can do that any time. Not really related to refreshing the top end.
I have zero issues with this engine, the valve train is quiet, I just want to freshen her up and Im not trying to increase performance.
I wonder if Id be better served by sending the cylinders and heads off to someone and have them do their thing, so its just an assembly job on my end. - See above about the heads. Personally, I wouldn't go through all this without refreshing them on a 105k mile motor.
Kyoto cam bearing - Fine choice. Personally, if the ICB has already been replaced at some point with the full complement version, I wouldn't bother replacing it again. I'm probably in the minority with that opinion.
Hayden the oil fix - Not needed
Id like input on what brand pistons & rings - Wiseco
and any special tools needed. - Depending on how it goes, you might find yourself wanting a wrist pin puller to get the old ones out. And some files for setting ring gap.
Im figuring on just honing the cylinders. Is there a preferred type or brand of honing tool for this? - I'd hold off until disassembly before making any decisions here. Same with the pistons. Depending on the condition of the jugs, you may end up wanting to go 10 over or something.
Preferred gasket kit Cometic? HD? James? - Personally, I'd say Cometic. Others say James.
Is it necessary to have the cylinder bases trued when using the Hayden oil fix? - I would (and to reiterate, I don't see the benefit of the Hayden once you've gone to a modern, steel base gasket.
I have stock push rods and an Andrews EV13 cam should I replace the cam or only replace it, if it shows pitting or unusual wear? - If you don't care about the expense, go for it. If this was my bike, and if the cam had more than 50k miles on it, I'd probably replace it just to be safe.
I replaced the valve cover gaskets earlier this year, I removed and inspected the lifters, cam and pushrods at that time they all looked to be in great shape, Im assuming they will still look good 5k later. - Probably will.
What about the heads? I dont know what to measure or look for to evaluate the valves & springs? - At 105k, if you're going through all this, I'd go ahead and send them out for fresh seats and guides, and maybe valves and springs depending on what the machine shop finds. But based on your introductory comments, they sound fine. Do a compression test before teardown.
I occasionally get oil spitting out through the air cleaner, is there a fix for this while Im in there? - Common issue. There are a number of solutions for routing the crankcase ports away from the carb. But you can do that any time. Not really related to refreshing the top end.
I have zero issues with this engine, the valve train is quiet, I just want to freshen her up and Im not trying to increase performance.
I wonder if Id be better served by sending the cylinders and heads off to someone and have them do their thing, so its just an assembly job on my end. - See above about the heads. Personally, I wouldn't go through all this without refreshing them on a 105k mile motor.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 820
From: Moneta, Virginia
Omaha, thank you for taking the time to answer my questions!
My reason for freshening up the top end now: I have the time & the funds and would rather do it on my schedule, rather than wait till shes smoking or shaking mid riding season.
My reason for freshening up the top end now: I have the time & the funds and would rather do it on my schedule, rather than wait till shes smoking or shaking mid riding season.
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