automatic primary chain tensioner

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Apr 25, 2022 | 07:00 PM

jsamps16

Thread Starter

Intermediate

Joined: Apr 2022

Posts: 32

Likes: 38

From: Michigan

automatic primary chain tensioner

so I was putting my new clutch in and went to install my chain tensioner and the bottom motor side bolt striped out... I did not over torque it, it just would not tighten... probably pulled the treads out when I removed it... does anyone have any experience with the automatic chain tensioners? do they work way better than the stock one? or should I just get a replacement oem part and call it a day? was thinking of just trying to repair mine but I'm not sure if it would be very effective to try

Apr 25, 2022 | 07:01 PM

misfitJason

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 6,849

Likes: 1,389

From: Florida

Hayden!

Apr 25, 2022 | 07:58 PM

t150vej

HDF Community Team

Joined: Dec 2005

Posts: 5,422

Likes: 2,621

From: NC USA

Another vote for the Hayden M6 BT65.

Put mine in at about 32000 miles. Has about 160K now, original shoe still looks great. Best money I ever spent on an aftermarket mechanical part.

Apr 25, 2022 | 09:49 PM

Son of PMS

Tourer

Joined: Jun 2013

Posts: 317

Likes: 48

From: Minnesota

I’ve been running a Hayden for several years now. No complaints. Money well spent.

Apr 26, 2022 | 12:35 AM

Dano523

HDF Community Team

Joined: Jan 2020

Posts: 1,434

Likes: 800

From: Colorado

Lost here, since when you say bottom bolt threads, you do mean the back strapped toothed piece that is bolted to the primary case on the oem system, that the outer adjuster teeth mate up to, since the chain adjuster only has its one bolt.

If yes, then will need to repair the primary case threads (helicoil insert), so the back toothed plate can be bolted back up to the inside of the primary case correctly in the first place.

If you mean the long bolt with it nut, that its just a caputured bolt by the back straps tooth plate, so removing the back strap bolts top and bottom, will all you to pull the back tooth plate, to replace the long bolt that is captures in it slot.

If you mean the two lower bolts on the adjuster piece itself, easy enough to just go in to spot weld a few places on the thread channels, run a tap to reproduce the threads, and when you do go to install the small bolts, make sure to not over tighten, uses some 242 loctite so they don't back out over time on their own.

__________________________________________________ ______

As for the automatic primary chain tensions on the Evo motor, not a fan of the spring tensioner that can still allow primary chain buck/slap to top of case when the chain bucks to fully compresses it plastic guide all the way down.

Hence a bigger fan of pulling the primary cover more often, to double check to make sure that the comp/spring stack are still in good shape, and can adjust the OEM adjuster if needed at the same time.

Last edited by Dano523; Apr 26, 2022 at 12:46 AM.

Apr 26, 2022 | 04:35 AM

guido4198

Grand HDF Member

Joined: Aug 2008

Posts: 3,601

Likes: 9,915

From: Florida's gorgeous East coast

I've run a Hayden 185,000 mi. I'm on my second "shoe". About 15-20 yrs go I found one of the springs in the unit had broken. It was "captured" so nothing got loose inside the primary chaincase. Replaced the broken spring and put it all back together. No other issues.

Apr 26, 2022 | 08:14 AM

Dan89FLSTC

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: May 2008

Posts: 21,175

Likes: 12,748

From: South Carolina

I`m a fan of the OEM manual chain tensioner.
No moving parts.

I did replace the nylon shoe on my `89 Softail at about 80,000 miles, but only because the primary was apart and I had a new part, the old one looked fine.