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Do you check breather timing / opening? S&S does a decent job on that, but it might be worth a look to see when it opens.
Paul
This motor has always been a bleeder. Early on I checked the breather timing to known specs and even tried to advance the breather one tooth to see it it would help. I eventually made a nice big trap to catch the overflow.. Part of the problem is where the breather valves are mounted in the heads. Not really a good location for separating oil mist.. The Xzotic pan cover I got had all kinds of issues. It was the last set the Xzotic had before selling to Custom Chrome.. Vulcan Machine eventually took of the product and made the breather setup like a Twincam.. Way better. I could upgrade the rockers but I've got the current ones working..
What is frustrating about this is that you can download the current timing map from the module.. On the DTT TC ones you can.. One of the bad things about both is that you can't tell externally if the unit has been programmed. With the 2KI you can connect it up and look to see if the thing has been programmed tho..
Is that ignition curve set low for break in?
When I was programming curves on my Evo the only thing I didn't like is that when you load a curve you have no other option or curves to switch to if you needed to while out on a ride.. it took a laptop because the dip switches became inactive when designing a specific curve.
Is that ignition curve set low for break in?
When I was programming curves on my Evo the only thing I didn't like is that when you load a curve you have no other option or curves to switch to if you needed to while out on a ride.. it took a laptop because the dip switches became inactive when designing a specific curve.
It's real close to where I expect it to be. I've been running this motor in curve 4 with the mark T:F retarded to the far left side of the timing hole. That ends up with the timing being about 27 degrees full advance. I simply retarded curve 4, 4 degrees. With this build, I gained a little compression cleaning up the tops of the cylinders. I expect that timing will be real close.
One thing to note.. If you don't have VOES switch, you can use the Partial Throttle map to make a second map and add a switch to the voes wire to ground it. You can tean compare 2 curves on the fly..
It's real close to where I expect it to be. I've been running this motor in curve 4 with the mark T:F retarded to the far left side of the timing hole. That ends up with the timing being about 27 degrees full advance. I simply retarded curve 4, 4 degrees. With this build, I gained a little compression cleaning up the tops of the cylinders. I expect that timing will be real close.
One thing to note.. If you don't have VOES switch, you can use the Partial Throttle map to make a second map and add a switch to the voes wire to ground it. You can tean compare 2 curves on the fly..
I actually did that on my 77 Shovel.. It was nice for when just cruising no load...
I need to replace the inner primary bearing on a 3 inch BDL primary. They use a 5205 double row ball bearing but set for a tight slip fit. The stock 5205 bearing is about 0.001" under the shaft size so it's a press fit. This means I have to find one that has been honed out. I had 2 that I'd bought some years ago but found that they were 0.003 oversized.. I hunted around for a replacement but was worried that the fit wouldn't be right and this being an older primary, I was having trouble finding one. The ones I found were $80 and no guarantee that the fit was good. Could always return but WTF, I bought 3 for $80 and have finished 2 of them slip fit. Will do the 3rd..
The holder grips the inner race so it won't turn and keeps the lapping compound away from the bearing.
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