Going back to ECM stock?
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 175
Likes: 142
From: Wilmington, NC
Going back to ECM stock?
For those who followed my Clutch Thread, which included a basic rebuild of the trans., The bike was running great, then an OLD problem started to occur last week.
I had an OLD HI-4 in the bike. It would run stutter like at low speeds, and occasionaly pause and pop. I replaced with with the S&S Hi-4N. It worked great and all was well—better than ever. Now idle is a little erratic, and the stuttering is back at low speed. I replaced it in December in 2022 btw. Yesterday I checked the fuel mixture and timing. All was adjusted slightly, but looks good.
So this makes me annoyed, and I am considering going back to a stock sensor, and ECM—I have the old ECM I recently pulled off the botton the oil tank when I did the rebuild on the trans and fixed the clutch. The clutch and everything in the trans is running great BTW.
I am going to take it out today and see, but the problem just showed up and IF it is as intermittent as the old HI-4, then it might run great, or….not.
I am not sure the old ECM works, and I do not think there is a way to test it to find out. But, if I switch I’d need the sensor plate and dual fire coil at least.
Any thoughts on this?
I had an OLD HI-4 in the bike. It would run stutter like at low speeds, and occasionaly pause and pop. I replaced with with the S&S Hi-4N. It worked great and all was well—better than ever. Now idle is a little erratic, and the stuttering is back at low speed. I replaced it in December in 2022 btw. Yesterday I checked the fuel mixture and timing. All was adjusted slightly, but looks good.
So this makes me annoyed, and I am considering going back to a stock sensor, and ECM—I have the old ECM I recently pulled off the botton the oil tank when I did the rebuild on the trans and fixed the clutch. The clutch and everything in the trans is running great BTW.
I am going to take it out today and see, but the problem just showed up and IF it is as intermittent as the old HI-4, then it might run great, or….not.
I am not sure the old ECM works, and I do not think there is a way to test it to find out. But, if I switch I’d need the sensor plate and dual fire coil at least.
Any thoughts on this?
Last edited by SpringerSoftail2020; May 10, 2023 at 10:43 AM.
Thread Starter
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 175
Likes: 142
From: Wilmington, NC
I would believe this in my case except for 2 reasons: 1. It was rebuilt last year, and 2) it is so intermittent. I could add 3) it ran perfect for months until last week after the change in december.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 175
Likes: 142
From: Wilmington, NC
THAT is definitely a possibility. I mean a float can stick at any time, and so I cannot rule it out. The flow FROM the tank is excellent however. Also, not sure this contributes, but I was running a little richplugs looked a little powdery black. That was part of my adjustment yesterday.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Poolville
If you still have the stock ignition module Standard Motor Products makes a cps that is still under $50.. I keep one in my tool box as a testing device.. Also ran one for years in my Evo.. I've gotten away from the all in one units in the nose cone.. To much heat..
You never stated year or model..
https://www.ebay.com/p/171210942
If it's the Springer Softail in your signature then it's going to be MC-SPA1 cps.
You never stated year or model..
https://www.ebay.com/p/171210942
If it's the Springer Softail in your signature then it's going to be MC-SPA1 cps.
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; May 10, 2023 at 12:28 PM.
Thread Starter
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 175
Likes: 142
From: Wilmington, NC
If you still have the stock ignition module Standard Motor Products makes a cps that is still under $50.. I keep one in my tool box as a testing device.. Also tan one for years in my Evo.. I've gotten away from the all in one units in the nose cone.. To much heat..
You never stated year or model..
https://www.ebay.com/p/171210942
You never stated year or model..
https://www.ebay.com/p/171210942
I always forget to state because it is in my post descriptionBUT it is a 1988 FXSTS.
I bought it with the original Crane Cam HI-4 in it, and it always was a trouble that got progressively worse. I did not even know I had the original module on it until I removed the tank for work on the trans. I do not know WHY the original setup was removed, but I do know the carb (an S&S which I love) was jetted not at stock but for more performance. I rejetted it back to stock when I overhauled it. That took care of a lot but not all the stutter back then. When I replaced with the S&S HI-4N it ALL went away from December 2022 until now.
Thanks for the link! I was thinking about the Standard. And now I need ot think about the coil! I could then run a test with it all hooked up. BTW, does one connect a tach to a post at the dual fire? Now my tach is hooked to a wire from the HI-4N.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,116
Likes: 7,639
From: Poolville
If you're going to use the original ignition module there should be a wire in the harness that would be your tach signal.. I know on the later models it was a yellow wire.. You're going to need a schematic to find it..
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: poway
Well, One thing to note is that the Crane and SnS unit are the same.. SnS bought crane years back.. Maybe try a Dynatec 2000i. I've put a lot of miles on a few including about 35000 on a hot SnS 113 motor. No issues. 15K before was a 2000i but it was replaced main because it wasn't programmable.. Also put about 34000 on a 2000i in a 88 ci SnS motor, no issues.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jul 2021
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From: Wilmington, NC
On the 1988, there is no wire for it in the harness. I have the schematic too. The tach is after market mounted. I know it goes to the coil, but dual fire is set up differently. I THINK it goes to the negative post on the coil (with the blue wire from the factory module). I have attached the wiring diagram to this post. White wires combine (I think thats the + side) and the blue wire from the Module is the upper (I think that is the - side).