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Doing this will help eliminate the "Dreaded Click", but will not cure starter motor stall.
Honestly not sure if it's " starter stall" but ever since I can remember first start of the day when I push the starter button the engine will begin to turn slightly then I get the " clicking " people are describing. This occurs even though I've replaced the starter with an upgraded starter and all the starter and battery cables when I did my Baker 6 speed trans, cleaned and rebuilt the solenoid as well. Also replaced the battery recently. When it does the click,if I let off the starter button and try it again the second time it usually turns over. This usually only happens the first start of the day. I'd like to try the added relay fix just to see if it helps but not sure if the instructions in the sticky for " dreaded click" will work for my 1988 FLHS. The sticky doesn't specifically mention my year and model, only 1989 FLHS. The engine has SE heads, and a SE 54 cam so compression is a bit higher than stock at 9.5 to 1. Crane Hi4 ignition set up according to instructions. Can you tell me it the second relay fix would apply to my bike? Thanks, Mike
I'd like to try the added relay fix just to see if it helps but not sure if the instructions in the sticky for " dreaded click" will work for my 1988 FLHS. The sticky doesn't specifically mention my year and model, only 1989 FLHS. Can you tell me it the second relay fix would apply to my bike? Thanks, Mike
The added relay will be of no benefit on an `88 FLHS, because the starter relay already has a good source of power for pin 30.
The relay (pin 30) is connected directly to the main breaker silver stud (Orange wire in illustration)
Disconnect the wire and clean the contact surfaces.
Clean the terminals and contact surfaces at the relay and solenoid.
Unplug the connector for the left hand switch harness, inspect and clean the pins and sockets, look for any pins pushed out of the connector.
I have a 86 FXWG, I changed the stock starter to a Spyke 1.4kw upgraded the battery to a higher CCA (450 CCA) and upgraded the wiring to thicker gauge and it's a solid hit each time I push the button now. Mine was not really the same problem as the original poster's, my bike would occasionally be dead and all other times just slow cranking sound like a flat battery. But related to other poster's comments in respect to ground connections the installation instructions from Spyke said to add an additional standalone ground from the starter housing the frame. I didn't do this as I was happy with the result without it, but it might be something worth considering.
if its Compression Vs Cranking power you can always try the old trick,
put the bike in first
roll it back onto compression with the clutch out
put it back in neutral
and hit the button
This will give the flywheels some momentum to help the starter carry the engine over the compression stroke. If advance timing is an issue this process will also help with that as well because if you like where your bike is timed to riding you wouldn't want to retard the timing just for starting
Honestly not sure if it's " starter stall" but ever since I can remember first start of the day when I push the starter button the engine will begin to turn slightly then I get the " clicking " people are describing. This occurs even though I've replaced the starter with an upgraded starter and all the starter and battery cables when I did my Baker 6 speed trans, cleaned and rebuilt the solenoid as well. Also replaced the battery recently. When it does the click,if I let off the starter button and try it again the second time it usually turns over. This usually only happens the first start of the day. I'd like to try the added relay fix just to see if it helps but not sure if the instructions in the sticky for " dreaded click" will work for my 1988 FLHS. The sticky doesn't specifically mention my year and model, only 1989 FLHS. The engine has SE heads, and a SE 54 cam so compression is a bit higher than stock at 9.5 to 1. Crane Hi4 ignition set up according to instructions. Can you tell me it the second relay fix would apply to my bike? Thanks, Mike
The '88 is a totally different starter setup than the '89 but the electrics up to the solenoid are the same.
On the '88 the power comes from the starter post to the main breaker, up to the COM breaker then to the main SW. From there, power goes from the main sw to the starter relay (#30) and back to the ACC breaker off of the relay terminal #87a.
When the stater button is pushed, the power from relay post #30 switches to terminal 87, disconnecting #87a and to the solenoid. (yes, it drops the acc circuit when starter activated, not the light circuit)
So you see, the power to activate the solenoid on the early or late starter has to go up and back and thru one (main) switch, 2 breakers and thru the relay contacts. If everything is perfect, never a problem but if there's loss anywhere along that journey or a combination of losses, you will have a problem with the starter activation.
Please let us know if you get it figured out. Mine ( 88 FLHS ) has been doing the same thing for years. Also upgraded to new starter, new battery, new battery cables, cleaned grounds etc. Still does it. I also have higher than stock compression with the SE heads. Timed according to the directions that came with the Crane Hi4 ignition, but I think I'm going to try retarding the ignition a degree ot 2.
No luck yet. I retarded the ignition a bit and put on another better made ignition switch and it's still doing it. FLICK!
Aces and 8s did the compu-fire system and many issues with it.
Bought one from Barnett and his problems went away.
FWIW when I sheered some teeth off my OEM ring gear I went to the 10/84 from Barnett years ago and haven't had a problem since.
I looked and saw that Barnett still offers the ring gear just not certain about the pinion gear.
I'll give that a try next start up. It's most likely the cam I'm using and the higher compression. It's always done this since I built the engine, but it's worth it, the bike runs so damn good for only 80 inches and has such a strong mid range and top end I'll probably just live with it.
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