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A CV is ok but a mikuni 45 is all the ***** one needs when b ig inch motors are in the mix - linear power all the way to red line - drivable not explosive
A CV is ok but a mikuni 45 is all the ***** one needs when b ig inch motors are in the mix - linear power all the way to red line - drivable not explosive
I've got a complete HSR42 setup. I'm sure with some playing with jet size it should work. It's all in the planning stages at this point.
I’ve now got about 75 miles on the 127. There is a lot of popping even backfire in the pipes going on at decel… passed all flame tests. Tried 31, 32 and 33 intermediate, needs the 32 at 1.5 turned out. Throttle is closing all the way… still the popping and firecracker nonsense. Down to possibly timing, Might blame the extra thick air filter too.. might try a regular width K&N to see if it makes a difference. Or maybe that’s just what these pipes are gonna do.
Bassani pro street three stage 2 into 2 with welded in baffles. Super G with bored Ventura and external air bleed, no T-jets.
Last edited by Rains2much; Oct 27, 2023 at 03:51 PM.
Have a 33 in my 127, bored venturi and still needed more than normal needle adjustment, came to a conclusion a big cube is a different creature to tune due to the large amount of air it can pull back thru the exhaust and gave it what it wanted. AFR meter was showing 12.6 at a slow cruise which will flood a normal engine, just keep turning the needle in small increments when slowing down to a stop solving the slight backfire issue.
Richer, was thinking afr numbers, your trying to offset the excessive reversion, big cubes need free flowing exhaust to get rid of spent gases, down side is the big cylinders pull air large amounts of air back thru on decell needing fuel to not lean out with reversion. Trying normal 13.8 - 14.2 idle & cruise AFR with a big cube and free exhaust works about the same as putting a wet noodle in a Wildcats azz.
Give it what it wants for street manors and tune for top end, trust me those big cubes can eat 12.6 -13.2 at idle and cruise, only other choice would be more restrictive exhaust but not a goal on the big cube. Big cubes on the street throw everything basic about tuning out the window, tune for runability at low speeds, Wego comes in for WOT tuning and have my WOT afr's at 12.8 for safety, detonation or sticking a piston has better chances of not happening.
Pulling timing back richens .1 afr to every 1 degree pulled from street tuning with a Wego recording in EFI maps, pulling timing looses power, over fueling looses power, big cubes added in means alot of trial and error. As my muffler packing started burning out could notice slight gurgling coming back in from less restriction, more reversion, turned the air screw slight richer again.
Last edited by 1997bagger; Oct 28, 2023 at 08:49 AM.
Where I live these days there isn’t a single gas station with any kinda race gas. Best I can do it 93 octane. Any advice? I ran 100 in the shovel, not sure what I’m gonna do now. Might have to consider my own above ground tank.
‘Actually I could tune the shovel to run on 93.. but it sacrificed a little timing. John You say 30 is backed off.. man that’s like full advance in my world lol.
Last edited by Rains2much; Oct 28, 2023 at 02:09 PM.
Shovel and evo full advance is 36 — our big block nova super gas car we add 2 degrees timing new engine each pass till it slows down in the cars ET
then back off 1 degree at a time till hopefully freezes in the ET - super gas is 9:90 so in all weather you need a 9:20 car to cover it
timing a weight is used to zero in on a number
and you do not need special gas with under 11 to 1 compression — tune it to the gas you can buy local at any station is the real deal - timing is the deal to get you in the right spot - 3 threads down 100 mile spark plugs is the correct heat range and a brown color is the right mixture - i have never used a tee or what ever its called to tune
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Richer, was thinking afr numbers, your trying to offset the excessive reversion, big cubes need free flowing exhaust to get rid of spent gases, down side is the big cylinders pull air large amounts of air back thru on decell needing fuel to not lean out with reversion. Trying normal 13.8 - 14.2 idle & cruise AFR with a big cube and free exhaust works about the same as putting a wet noodle in a Wildcats azz.
Give it what it wants for street manors and tune for top end, trust me those big cubes can eat 12.6 -13.2 at idle and cruise, only other choice would be more restrictive exhaust but not a goal on the big cube. Big cubes on the street throw everything basic about tuning out the window, tune for runability at low speeds, Wego comes in for WOT tuning and have my WOT afr's at 12.8 for safety, detonation or sticking a piston has better chances of not happening.
Pulling timing back richens .1 afr to every 1 degree pulled from street tuning with a Wego recording in EFI maps, pulling timing looses power, over fueling looses power, big cubes added in means alot of trial and error. As my muffler packing started burning out could notice slight gurgling coming back in from less restriction, more reversion, turned the air screw slight richer again.
The big thing with AFRs is that big evo motors run hot.. A little extra fuel can help cool the motor.. You can go pretty lean and still make good power but the heat goes up. Air cooling on Evos ain that good. I've got a mouse SnS 113 and it still pretty skimpy on the fins compared to a Twincam..
While pulling timing can loose power so can too much.. I'm running only 27 deg full advance and it don't hit full until 5000.
I wonder about your "pulling back timing richens .1 afr to every 1 degree" with EFI. If closed loop, does the efi add or remove fuel?
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