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You can use points every antique machine even the ones 100 years old uses them - but the condenser can be an issue change both
now behind the plate they the points and condenser is bolted to is a mechanical advance unit that rotates back and forth for the engine timing remove it completely and clean it good it has to rotate very smooth and the weights in top with the springs need to be not wiggle loose
this is the reason its not starting correctly — the carb needs cleaning the low speed jet can and does get clogged and will not come back with out removing it and blowing it out
you need a factory book - on line some can direct you to a site free to see and read - I don’t know hw to do that
Thanks for the responses.
im not sure what kind of carbs, maby you can see it ?
These are the only pictures I got right now .
I hope it helps .
Nice rigid you got there.
I'd completely rebuild the CV carb and install all new points/condenser and adjust timing.
I think you have an enclosed belt drive primary and probably has no provision to install an electric starter. You'd have to start from scratch on that.
Should be reliable and a good runner once dialed in.
yeah you are way too advanced on your timing. Loosen the standoffs and rotate that rear plate anti clockise until you have the standoffs sitting exactly in the middle of both slots. Set the points gap to 0.18 on each lobe and try it
One More thing.. I forgot about those centrifugal advances.. After sitting so long it could be froze to fully advanced.. So you need to pull the points plate and check the centrifugal to make sure that ain't making the timing full advanced..
Originally Posted by johnjzjz
now behind the plate they the points and condenser is bolted to is a mechanical advance unit that rotates back and forth for the engine timing remove it completely and clean it good it has to rotate very smooth and the weights in top with the springs need to be not wiggle loose
Originally Posted by Greaser1340
yeah you are way too advanced on your timing. Loosen the standoffs and rotate that rear plate anti clockise until you have the standoffs sitting exactly in the middle of both slots. Set the points gap to 0.18 on each lobe and try it
These fellows have given good advice to eliminate the kick-back. If it is kicking back, it is firing and igniting gasoline.
The advice others have given to change components is good after you solve the kick-back problem and want to get a better running machine.
yeah you are way too advanced on your timing. Loosen the standoffs and rotate that rear plate anti clockise until you have the standoffs sitting exactly in the middle of both slots. Set the points gap to 0.18 on each lobe and try it
how can you see the timing is off from this side ?
Thought I should sync with the point on the other side og the engine
Nice rigid you got there.
I'd completely rebuild the CV carb and install all new points/condenser and adjust timing.
I think you have an enclosed belt drive primary and probably has no provision to install an electric starter. You'd have to start from scratch on that.
Should be reliable and a good runner once dialed in.
Griz
thanks man , happy to hear .
nice to know what im working with here 😀
Appreciate your help 👌💪🏻
????? I used a CV40 on a kick-only bike for many years, set up properly ANY carb will work for kick only.
With a 48 low and the float set high?
CV40 is the best carb ever made for an Evo or Shovel if you plan to actually ride one. And I've never tried to kick an Evo/CV but know how hard one is to start after sitting much time unless it's hot weather.
I got over kicking 36 years ago after 15 years of Triumphs. Amals are made for kickers.
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