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1990 harley fxstc 80ci...I put the bike away in the winter running very well , in the spring I removed the the rocker box on the rear jug to replace the rocket arm bolts , after re assembly the bike started and ran for 45 seconds and than stopped and won't start but it tries too...I've replaced the kill switch , the ignition sensor and the coil . Rebuilt the carb , fresh high octane gas and new plugs and wires... the bike started and ran somewhat rough but gas was coming out in a misty form. ...after several runs now the bike won't start but tries too again and also a few back fires ... this all with the ignition sensor at full advance...tried starting it at full retard and all points in between and will only attempt to start at full advance and thats with fuel blowing out the carb ..... what am I missing here, any ideas would be appreciated.
Talk us through how you replaced those rocker bolts....all at once, one at a time, what torque setting, did you soak the oil up outta the thread holes? Yadda, yadda, yadda. Always look at the last thing you did...I got bolts on my shovel that are older than most adults....they'll last a few decades more.
Talk us through how you replaced those rocker bolts....all at once, one at a time, what torque setting, did you soak the oil up outta the thread holes? Yadda, yadda, yadda. Always look at the last thing you did...I got bolts on my shovel that are older than most adults....they'll last a few decades more.
the bolts were installed correctly and to the specified torque....also took the rocker box cap off once it refused to start and checked the travel of the valve springs and the rocker arm contact with the top of the valve stem for any slight movement off the top of the contact point , if there was movement that would indicate a bent valve stem , but even if it was the motor should start .... this is a mystery...
130-140 is good, stock was 155-160 new.., It almost sounds like as if your ignition might have went out of whack.. Check to see if you got any goo coming out your cam position sensor And do you have a spare ignition module You can just throw into test??
Also are you absolutely sure the float bowl is clean of debris and your getting enough fuel??
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Jun 3, 2024 at 09:53 AM.
Thanks for the suggestions but as I've mentioned, new coil new sensor and new kill and start switch all wired correctly , the icm is Questionable but with that said I'm getting spark from both plugs , that Particular icm is near impossible to find but can be Eliminated by installing a dynatec 2000i Programmable digital ignition....something i will consider if I can confirm it's the icm
The rocker box bolts are not a wear item and do not need to be changed unless the threads are stripped or have been over torqued. I've read factory shop manuals cover to cover and in no place does it state that the rocker box bolts need to be changed after a certain amount of miles or time. I don't understand the logic or the reasoning behind this.
Wtf , rocker arm bolts wear , where most ppl tend to use rocker lockers to get rid of top end ticking I choose to put new bolts in and surprise surprise no more ticking ....
Thanks for the suggestions but as I've mentioned, new coil new sensor and new kill and start switch all wired correctly , the icm is Questionable but with that said I'm getting spark from both plugs , that Particular icm is near impossible to find but can be Eliminated by installing a dynatec 2000i Programmable digital ignition....something i will consider if I can confirm it's the icm
You can get spark with plugs out of the motor but they'll blow out under compression if you have questionable components in there. If spark is blowing out, plugs will likely be wet but the trouble with questionable ignition components is that replacement is often the only reliable test.
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